Wind-bound in Nicaria, circa 1740

 Old stone shelter near Langada in Ikaria
Hello readers!
I don’t expect this long article to become too popular. It’s just that several modern-day Ikarians show a lot of interest in knowing as much as they can about the more recent history of the island and they are usually very disappointed. Compared with other islands of the Aegean Sea, there is so little to say about Ikaria! No glorious battles, no illustrious rulers, no forts and fleets, no trading towns, no towers, cathedrals and famous monasteries; only mossy stonewalls and old thrifty houses scattered in the ravines, the valleys and the forests in the hills.
Εxcept one Greek Orthodox clergyman in the 17th century, no other educated person from East or West felt the urge to visit the island and write an account. If I’m not mistaken, the first book about the history of Ikaria appeared in the middle of the 20th century. Until then, there was no big narrative but only countless little stories told by the fireplace; persistent little stories which by force of repetition, became local legends; local legends some of which today, by force of time and culture gap, may sound like wild fairy tales.

Imaginary depiction of Charles Perry's ship wind-bound under Cape Papas in Ikaria
Neverthelss, there were some short descriptions of the life in the island during the Obscurity («Αφάνεια») as we like to call in Ikaria the first hard centuries of the Ottoman occupation. These were written by the very few European travelers who touched at our rough, inhospitable shores, often by chance or accident. In Pr A.J. Papalas’ book «Ancient Icaria» I found a reference to one of these documents, which, although brief and trivial, capticated my imagination. It is by Charles Perry, a wealthy medical doctor from England who travelled in the Levant from 1739 to 1742. After visiting Egypt, Perry sailed from Alexandria to Athens. On his way across the Aegean he visited and described the islands of Cos and Patmos. But after that island, as he was heading for Mykonos, his ship was caught in a storm and was forced to drop anchor in Ikaria.

Old settlement in Karkinagri Ikaria I liked Perry’s account. Reading his one and a half page about his accidental visit to Ikaria, I felt the genuine puzzlement of a man of the Century of Lights for the unwelcoming, extremely mountainous environment of the island and his also genuine astonishment (and contempt) for the attitude and the way of life of its inhabitants. But, most of all, I liked his account for a more personal reason: through the eyes of the good old British doctor, I saw some places of western Ikaria which I know very well, such as Karkinagri, Agios Isidoros and Langada, looking as uncanny and wild, as if we were talking about a remote, unfriendly rock in the middle of the South Pacific!
I found that very exciting! In my mind it fitted in with the other tales of my island and their mixture generated cores for several imaginary storylines! Maybe some day I’ll sit down Drawing of Imaginary Ikarians fiesting in the 18th century and write a similar story, this time not from the side of an enlightened European physician, probably wearing a powdered wig, but from the side of the «wretched, almost naked and savage» Ikarians!

 ∴  ∴  ∴  ∴  ∴  ∴  ∴  ∴  ∴  ∴  ∴  ∴  ∴  ∴  ∴  ∴  ∴  ∴

Wind-bound in Nicaria, p.484 «We spent three days in Patmos, not disagreeably; and the fourth in the morning we set sail for Myconos; but the wind, which was otherwise pretty favorable, grew slack, next to a calm; so that it was with much-ado, with what wind we had, and the help of our oars, that we reached the west end of Nicaria in two days. We much lamented our hard fate, that we should thus long want a wind at such a favourable (for it) crisis of the year, it being near the Autumnal Equinox.
However, that night, about an hour after sunset, even whilst we were reproaching the malice of our stars, a fine gale sprang up. We failed not to embrace it immediately, and we went driving on, Jehu-like, with our sails full of wind and our hearts full of joy: But alas! How frail and transitory are human hopes and happiness, especially upon the sea? Within an hour after, the wind turned against us, and blew a storm; so that we were forced to change our course, and to seek shelter under a rock at the west end of Nicaria, which we did not attain, however, without much difficulty and danger.»

Wind-bound in Nicaria, p.485 «Here we lay wind-bound four nights, and above three days; during which irksome interval we amused ourselves in the best manner we could with fishing: But after we had spent two days without other recreation than fishing, that sport grew dull and tedious; and whilst we were looking out for some sport and divertissement, kind Providence (of its grace and favour) sent us the glad tidings that about a mile off, on the side of a high rocky mountain, there was a spring of excellent water, which was resorted to by great number of partridges. Upon this intelligence, (which we got the third day of our detention there) we immediately got ready arms and ammunition of all sorts, as well for the belly as the barrel -such as bread, butter, cheese, salt, pepper, wine, glasses, etc. We marched on directly, (flushed with the hopes of new game) with uncommon ardour, or rather avidity; and we were well recompensed our pains; for we passed that day very agreeably.
The mountain (though in general very steep) admits a sort of level in that place; and the spring of water issues out of a rock, in a very convenient and delightful spot, where nature or chance has formed a sort of grot, large enough to receive and accommodate a dozen or 15 persons. This natural grot (if we may so call it) is covered over, and secured against the weather, by a large flat stone of about 24 feet in diameter: This rests upon and is supported by other stones on all sides, except to the eastward; where, being open, it presents to view a sort of alcove. Here we passed the whole day (which but for that retreat would have been tedious) very agreeably -reclining upon the bed of our grot, with the water trilling along close by us, whilst our partisans upon the hunt for partridges, wild goats, and the like, of which they brought us in good store.»

Wind-bound in Nicaria, p.486 «There are some few inhabitants on this island, but those almost naked and savage, seldom seeing or conversing with any of the human species, except those of their own isle. The second day after we put in there, we sent out some of the mariners a shooting for us, who pursuing their game to the north side of the mountain, met with some of the natives. These were so affrighted at sight of strangers, that they fled from them with precipitation; but our people calling after them, and telling them they had brought them bread and corn, they at last prevailed on them to stop, and come to a party with them. These poor wretches, being at length persuaded of our good intentions, came to see us aboard our vessel, and afterwards brought us good store of grapes and meat. We were really at a loss to guess where they found those things; for the whole island, so far as we could see of it, is the most miserable, barren rock that ever was seen.
The 4th day, towards noon, the wind changing in our favour, we set sail for Myconos, which is 40 miles distant from the westernmost point of Nicaria. This (as it is to be supposed) is a run of about 7 hours, with a good brisk gale…»

 ∴  ∴  ∴  ∴  ∴  ∴  ∴  ∴  ∴  ∴  ∴  ∴  ∴  ∴  ∴  ∴  ∴  ∴

Pages 484-486 from Charles Perry’s book, «A View of the Levant», which I have arbitrarily named «Wind bound in Nicaria», can be found in Google books

Modern books about the history of Ikaria:

Pr A.J.Papalas 'Ancient Icaria' on A presentation of the Greek translation of Pr A.J.Papalas 'Ancient Icaria' in my blog In my blog a rather personal and enthusiastic presentation of Pr A.J.Papalas 'Rebels and Radicals', a book about the history of Ikaria after 1670

Comments on this article are very welcome!



The Who in The Where (2)


«…συνηθισμένοι εις τον θεληματικόν κόπον μιας ησύχου ζωής, ανυπόδουλοι, εξ αρχής της κατοικήσεως των εις εκείνα τα υψηλά βουνά – έχουν ευτυχείς μακρά από την πολυτέλειαν και κακοήθειαν των διεφθαρμένων πολιτειών, ανδρείοι ως ελεύθεροι, φιλόξενοι ως Έλληνες…»
(παλιο ανωνυμο)

____Five strong and good looking men! by angeloska on Flickr

Hello readers!

There is no need to say much about this kind of post. I think I said more than enough in my first, very enthousiastic «The Who in The Where» 4 years ago. The focus again is on people, our people or the people who visit Ikaria but who somehow seem to have always belonged there. Or is it that our mysterious but so peaceful island has always belonged to them? I don’t know… I only know that I am missing it. I hope that as usual I will return in winter. Meanwhile, go ahead and look through my choice of new pictures of beautiful, meaningful human figures and faces from the summer months as well as the winter in Ikaria. Some of them I know, some others I don’t but I am proud of them all! These people are my next of kin. And though I writing this in a grey overheated city while wearing an uncomfortable formal suit, my heart is with them! I hope you like them too!


Mission completed by angeloska, on Flickr


Untitled by Philby, on Flickr Soulis Fradelos by fayum, on Flickr Ikaria by 40c taliban in Nana's article: 'You have the right to remain silent'


Giorgos Sourtis by fayum, on Flickr Enjoying life to the fullest 🏝 by nephele_hoodali, on Instagram


Happy to be here by angeloska, on Flickr Artemis in holly land by angeloska, on Flickr


Feel 🌳🍃🌻 by fitoerana_masina, on Instagram A friend, his staff and his dog by angeloska, on Flickr The lake we built in Ikaria, from Nana's article: 'Φτιάχνοντας μια Λίμνη στο Φαράγγι (1)'


Panigiri Langada 01 by Kerstin Hehmann in my article: 'The Two Sides' img_4288_1_1 from my article: 'The Aegean's nameless dead'


waves-play-nas-ikaria in my article: 'IF *I am tourist promoter*, so …' Chiara and Pierre Selini Ikaria from my article: 'KANGA! ツ ツ ツ ツ ツ'


Lefteris from the gallery of my article: 'KANGA! ツ ツ ツ ツ ツ' Angelos & Lefteris from the gallery of my article: 'KANGA! ツ ツ ツ ツ ツ' Volunteers trails Ikaria 20, from Nana's article: 'Εθελοντική εργασία στην Ικαρία'


Volunteers trails Ikaria 15, from Nana's article: 'Εθελοντική εργασία στην Ικαρία' Ikaria by Ntinos Mpompourdakis, on Flickr Faros 16, from my article: 'The day we took over the mountains!


Our guide Ikaria, from my article: 'Break on through to the other side ☀ yeah !' Lina & Xenia from the gallery of the article: 'KANGA! ツ ツ ツ ツ ツ'


Vitsaras from the gallery of the article: 'KANGA! ツ ツ ツ ツ ツ' Ikaria by Alexis Karnoutsos, on Flickr Like dlophins can swim by Peggy Zouti on Flickr Από της Ελιάς τον Κάμπο στην Εριφή: South Ikarian adventure 1, by Nana to agrimi on WordPress
Sofia feeling great by angeloska, on Flickr Musicians test dancing tunes 2 by angeloska, on Flickr Lafina Manganitis, from my article: 'ΓΙΑΤΙ ΣΤΗΝ ΙΚΑΡΙΑ; Μια συνέντευξη με την Ελένη' soso headstand 1 from my article: 'food, pebbles and headstands'

Ikarian pathman, from the article: 'Trail network shutdown' Be volunteer, from the article: 'Μύθοι για την Ικαρία : Ο ΚΟΚΚΙΝΟΣ ΜΥΘΟΣ' d02, from my article: '‘vRiLiSoS’ Nature Loving Society work paths' Silent walk 2 on the Trail of the Elves by angeloska, on Flickr

samphire ikaria 2 from my article: 'Gathering samphire at the brink of the waves' poledancer Therma Ikaria 3 in my article: 'That window won’t open …'


Red J in the Sun by angeloska, on Flickr Ikaria 2014 by Chris Tzaferos, on Flickr We love Nas, from Nana's article: 'Simply Belgian' Untitled by Morfoula Pithi, from Nana's article: 'Όλα Τέντα τον Αύγουστο'

Petra advertises hiking map by angeloska, on Flickr Petra walks the Round 5 by angeloska, on Flickr Shana on the bus in Ikaria, from my article: 'Ikaria in August – Instructions for Use' Leda and Lentisks in Myrsonas gorge by angeloska, on Flickr Dan the volunteer by angeloska, on Flickr

Musicians test dancing tunes 3 by angeloska, on Flickr Al Pacino in the panigiri Ikaria by Karl Georges, on Flickr Ικαρία Νας by Ntinos Mpormpoudakis, on Flickr

p1040703, from Nana's article: 'Simply Mother' Image from Nana's article: 'Touristicon' Καλό Καλοκαίρι by angeloska, on Flickr


agrimi03, from my article: 'Αφιερωμένο στην Αθηνά και σε κανέναν άλλον!' B&J in Ikaria 12, from Nana's article: 'Simply UK' The man and the place by angeloska, on Flickr Proud on the top by angeloska, on Flickr

Image from Nana's article: 'Touristicon' Posing at the pool by angeloska, on Flickr

All images open directly on the bloggers’ or photographers’ own spaces and it goes without saying that they are copyrighted. Special thanks to © angeloska, © Ορειβατικός Σύλλογος Ικαρίας and © egotoagrimi

More material in Flickr can be easily found if you type: «Ikaria + portrait», «Ikaria + face», «Ikaria + girl», «Ikaria + boy» etc.

Closing this let me add that there are more shots but that’s not «The Who in The Where» – that’s …

«Only Few in Only Few Places»! 😀

rocky nan summer ikaria

Bye, bye! Got to work now! 😛

Work Eleni


The Who in The Where (1)

____Ikaria - friends make the best view

This was worked in a team of friends, and a team of friends was accordingly chosen to feature as an introductory image. Now that it’s raining over the island and the frenzy over the gardens and the olives has stopped for a while, we found the time to compose a small gallery of beautiful, meaningful faces from the summer months as well as the winter. It was time we got over the shyness. The wild landscapes are thrilling but let’s show some people too -and from as close as possible. After all, Ikaria is, was and will be *an inhabited land*. In spite of its ruggedness and lack of resources, for reasons that are of the moment to discuss, the island is always and ever

settled and re-settled

Friends to hike

colonized and re-colonized

themis_ioanna (2) themis_ioanna 'Ole Suromanis

visited and re-visited

ΙΚΑΡΙΩΤΗΣ Daddy's girl

beloved and re-loved

Hey dude, what year is the next bus to Rahes? kat pool

acted and re-acted

Le repos de l' artiste Yorgos and the Lentisk Portrait in Tomatoes


freestyle bodysurf x20


Ikaria Armenistis x20


x23 x21 the biggest digger-man


x23 x21 Θέα


Untitled x20

What do these faces have in common? What do their eyes say? I am afraid I can’t tell you. Perhaps I am too close to the subject to be able to express an opinion. And the others of the team weren’t any help either. While choosing photos we ended up telling stories and gossiping. So no deep cool thoughts; only deep warm eyes; and smiles.

Gallery: On the Harmful Effects of Wine ☺ x14 Dance & Save Atheras Ikaria 17 collect sweet herbs
girl #1 Tales under the oak tree (4) Eliana girl #2

 Any Place She Is Happy Is A Home Ikarian, The 93 yrs Hermes Of Aventura

all green inside Summer Velvet

But because I am Eleni and I must absolutely make a pondering statement :), I will quote the words of our friend Nana who always drops the wisest cues. While looking through the material, she said:

This is us. If it is to starve and die, we’d rather starve and die by ourselves than starve and die with someone else’s help.

If you ever visit our island, you may have the chance to understand what she meant.

Red J in the Sun by angeloska, on Flickr Learning simple greek phrases Sharing Radi (A VIII) The Seychellians 2

New Year's Eve inside the Watermill in Amalos7 γυναικών με φιλακι Σταματησ Stamatis Άννα

Sharing Radi (A V) Marianina and the Strawberry tree Kampos 2

Old Man Ikaria 091 Couple in Nas by Dementia, on Flickr

Carnival just over DSC_0064 Untitled DSC_0121

DSC_0625 copy Cuties

All images blogged here, open directly on the photographers’ own spaces in Flickr and they are copyrighted. These photographers are © angeloska © andzer © Apollonios © Γκαέλ © egotoagrimi © electron just © Gin Chil  © isl_gr © karstalipp © Karl Hauser © 2Lauran © leon_eye © mac13 © manuel’s photos © mountain ash © nicote © Thalia Nouarou © themis_ioanna © ikarianlad 

but there are portraits by others as well. I hope that you like the choice. Doesn’t it all, though so different, meet the professional? The material we have browsed was easily found in Flickr, filed in «Ikaria + portrait«, «Ikaria + face«, «Ikaria + girl«, «Ikaria + boy« etc. leaving out, needless to say, souvenir shots taken by tourists and showing tourists. The faces in our collection are endemic or claiming endemicity.

As we were editing, somebody in the team said that we should later also upload a gallery of hands. His motive was two up-to-the point comments in this blog. I also thought it’s a great idea. Hands too have a lot to say about our identity.

How nice and *aerated* it is in the island!

Another winter has started.

Eleni in Ikaria

p.s. Unless something exceptional appears, there are no blog reviews for the time being. Winter is no good for

Fisher Lady


Gianluca Colla’s Ikaria

    Gianluca Colla was the National Geographic photographer who worked in the Bluezones project in Ikaria few years ago. Now that the lights have dimmed and the noise has faded I felt due to have a second look at his excellent photos. The titles and commentation are his. Move the nose of your mouse over each picture to read them. I only added a few words of my own as I divided the 63 photos in rows.
 The amazing centenarians

    Eleftheria Gaglia, 95, lives in Evdilos..Untill a few years ago, she used to put fresh goat milk on her face, as a way to hydrate the skin.





30 40 50 60 70



 The Good Shepherds 
More outdoor activity


Family & community

Please note that this is not a post about longevity. We have talked
about this matter exhaustively elsewhere in April 2009 soon after
the Quest was over. This is a post about photography and certain
aspects of the life in my island which are true and the photographer
succeded to capture in a masterful way.
Thank you, Gianluca!
Please come again!

Αρχαία Ικαρία

.Το 'Αρχαία Ικαρία' του Α. Παπαλά στο ikariastore: 'Αν και η Ικαρία δεν είναι μικρό νησί, ο ρόλος της στην ιστορία του Αιγαίου ποτέ δεν ήταν ανάλογος του μεγέθους της. Η ορεινή μορφολογία του εδάφους, η έλλειψη φυσικών λιμένων και το συχνά τρικυμιώδες Ικάριο πέλαγος ήσαν οι τρεις βασικοί παράγοντες που συνετέλεσαν στην απομόνωση του νησιού από τον γεωγραφικό περίγυρό του. Παρ' όλα αυτά δεν έλειψαν περίοδοι που βρέθηκε στην περιφέρεια ή ακόμα και στο κέντρο σημαντικών ιστορικών εξελίξεων. Ο Αντώνης Ι. Παπαλάς είναι καθηγητής της Αρχαίας Ελληνικής και Ρωμαϊκής Ιστορίας και Διευθυντής του Τμήματος Κλασικών Σπουδών στο East Carolina University των Ηνωμένων Πολιτειών. Το βιβλίο αυτό αποτελεί μια...'
«Αν και η Ικαρία δεν είναι μικρό νησί, ο ρόλος της στην ιστορία του Αιγαίου ποτέ δεν ήταν ανάλογος του μεγέθους της. Η ορεινή μορφολογία του εδάφους, η έλλειψη φυσικών λιμένων και το συχνά τρικυμισμένο Ικάριο πέλαγος ήταν οι τρεις βασικοί παράγοντες που συντέλεσαν στην απομόνωση του νησιού από τον γεωγραφικό περίγυρό του. Παρόλα αυτά δεν έλειψαν περίοδοι που βρέθηκε στην περιφέρεια ή ακόμα και στο κέντρο σημαντικών ιστορικών εξελίξεων.»

Έτσι αρχίζει η «Αρχαία Ικαρία», ένα θαυμάσιο βιβλίο για την ιστορία της Ικαρίας από τους προϊστορικούς έως τους μεσαιωνικούς χρόνους που έπεσε πρόσφατα στα χέρια μου. Συγγραφέας είναι ο Ικαριακής καταγωγής Αντώνης Παπαλάς, καθηγητής της Αρχαίας Ρωμαϊκής και Ελληνικής Ιστορίας στο East Carolina University των Ηνωμένων Πολιτειών. Το έργο γράφτηκε στην αγγλική γλώσσα και κυκλοφόρησε στην Αμερική το 1992. Δέκα χρόνια αργότερα μεταφράστηκε και κυκλοφόρησε στην Ελλάδα από τις Εκδόσεις Α.Κ.Καλοκαιρινός. Πρόκειται για μια εξαιρετικά επιμελημένη έκδοση 288 σελίδων με άφθονες κατατοπιστικές φωτογραφίες και παραρτήματα.
Εμπλουτισμένη με πληθώρα ιστορικών πηγών και συσχετισμών η «Αρχαία Ικαρία» είναι πάρα ταύτα γραμμένη σε γλώσσα που διαβάζεται εύκολα και ευχάριστα από το μέσο αναγνώστη. Για τους Σαμιώτες αναγνώστες ιδιαίτερο ενδιαφέρον έχει η περιγραφή των άρρηκτων, διαχρονικών σχέσεων της Ικαρίας με τη Σάμο. Ακόμη, στη σύγχρονη εποχή μας, που κυριαρχεί η ανάγκη για αειφόρο ανάπτυξη και βιωσιμότητα παγκοσμίως αλλά και στο Αιγιακό χώρο ειδικότερα, τα συμπεράσματα που μπορεί να αντλήσει κάνεις μέσα από αυτή τη συγκροτημένη ιστορική διαδρομή της Ικαρίας είναι ιδιαίτερα χρήσιμα και επίκαιρα – θα έλεγα μάλλον πως αποτελούν ένα απροσδόκητα διαφωτιστικό στοιχείο αυτού του βιβλίου.
In my blog, about Rebels and Radicals Το 2005 εκδόθηκε στην Αμερική «η συνέχεια» της Αρχαίας Ικαρίας. Το νέο βιβλίο του Α. Παπαλά που φέρει τον εντυπωσιακό τίτλο “Rebels and Radicals”, πραγματεύεται την ιστορία του νησιού από τη μεταβυζαντινή έως τη σύγχρονη εποχή με ιδιαίτερη έμφαση στα γεγονότα του 1912 (Ικαριακή Επανάσταση), στο «έπος» των Ικαριωτών μεταναστών στην Αμερική και τις περιπέτειες της δραματικής δεκαετίας του 1940 (Αντίσταση, Εμφύλιος, Εξόριστοι).
Όπως και το «Αρχαία Ικαρία», έτσι και το “Rebels and Radicals” σύντομα ελπίζουμε θα μεταφραστεί και θα κυκλοφορήσει και στην Ελλάδα. Οι πρωτότυπες Αγγλικές εκδόσεις τόσο του “Ancient Icaria” όσο και του “Rebels and Radicals” διατίθενται από τον εκδοτικό οίκο Bolchazy-Carducci Publishers, Wauconda Illinois και παραγγελίες μπορούν να γίνουν από τις σχετικές ιστοσελίδες. Το «Αρχαία Ικαρία» διατίθεται από τις Εκδόσεις Α.Κ.Καλοκαιρινός, Ράχες Ικαρίας, τηλ. 2275-0-41371 και την ηλεκτρονική διεύθυνση, καθώς και από το ηλεκτρονικό βιβλιοπωλείο του περιοδικού ikariamag.

Αντιγραφη απο το μπλογκ των Ενεργων Πολιτων Σάμου : ΑΡΧΑΙΑ ΙΚΑΡΙΑ

Ιkaria rock side « Φως στη μαύρη τρύπα »

«Καλύπτει ένα κενό στη βιβλιογραφία». Συχνά χρησιμοποιούμε καταχρηστικά αυτή την έκφραση. Όμως για την «Αρχαία Ικαρία» των Εκδόσεων Α.Κ. Καλοκαιρινός – μια ιστορία της από την Εποχή του Χαλκού ώς τα τέλη του 16ου αιώνα – τα λόγια αυτά ηχούν τσιγγούνικα. Αρκεί να συνειδητοποιήσει κανείς ότι γι’ αυτό το άγριο και ιδιότυπο νησί, που μέχρι να αποκτήσει λιμάνια το ‘80, ήταν φοβερά απομονωμένο, σχεδόν δεν υπάρχουν επιστημονικές μελέτες, ούτε έχουν γίνει ποτέ συστηματικές αρχαιολογικές ανασκαφές, παρά μόνο το 1938, ούτε έχει ποτέ προβληθεί η χαρακτηριστική αρχιτεκτονική του. Όλοι τη γνώριζαν ως τόπο εξορίας και ιαματικών λουτρών, όλοι πια ξέρουν για τα εμπορικά καταστήματά της που ανοίγουν τα μεσάνυχτα, αλλά όποτε έψαχνε κανείς για κάτι περισσότερο έπεφτε σε μαύρη τρύπα. Ε! λοιπόν με αυτό το βιβλίο, η τρύπα του… Αιγαίου φωτίζεται. Συγγραφέας του είναι ο Ελληνοαμερικανός καθηγητής Αρχαιοελληνικής Ιστορίας στο Πανεπιστήμιο της Α. Καρολίνας, ο ικαριακής καταγωγής Αντώνης Παπαλάς, ο οποίος δούλεψε με αυστηρή επιστημονική μέθοδο και συνέθεσε το υλικό έτσι ώστε να διαβάζεται άνετα τόσο από τον επιστήμονα όσο και από το ευρύ κοινό. Απολαυστική η περιγραφή της Ικαρίας του 17ου αιώνα από τον τότε Επίσκοπο Ιωσήφ Γεωργειρήνη, που την παρουσιάζει ως το πιο φτωχό αλλά και το πιο ευτυχισμένο νησί του Αιγαίου»

(Μικέλα Χαρτουλάρη, εφημ. ΤΑ ΝΕΑ , 06-07-2002)

Αν θελετε, διαβασετε και το «Ξεναγηση στο Να» στο μπλογκ της Νανας,
που ειναι μια ιστορια που βασιζεται σε αυτο το βιβλιο.

Στο μπλογκ της Νανάς, ΞΕΝΑΓΗΣΗ ΣΤΟ ΝΑ: 'Τι ήταν ο Νας της Ικαρίας τα αρχαία, τα ρωμαϊκά και τα βυζαντινά χρόνια, η θρησκεία, το τοπίο και η ιστορία, η ιστορία του τοπίου.'





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Θεωρώ πολύ επιτυχημένο τον τίτλο. Απ’ ότι έχω καταλάβει, θεωρώ ότι η Ικαρία ήταν «αρχαία» ως τον 20ο αιώνα! 🙂

Sunday August 18, 2009 – 08:46am (EEST)

Το Αγγλικό πρωτότυπο είναι κάπως ξερό αλλά η μετάφραση και η επιμέλεια έχει βελτιώσει πάρα πολύ το ύφος, ενώ οι φωτογραφίες προσθέτουν γλαφυρότητα και επιπλέον στοιχεία. Πολλή ουσία επίσης βρίσκεται και στις παραπομπές και υποσημειώσεις. Η Ικαρία άργησε όμως έβγαλε τελικά ένα πολύ καλό ιστορικό βιβλίο!

Sunday August 24, 2009 – 04:55pm (EST)

Το ίδιο σκεφτόμουν κι εγώ Νανα!
Ευχαριστούμε πολύ, Μαρία!

Monday August 26, 2006 – 10:56pm (EET)

Ξέχασα να πω ότι μου άρεσε πολύ και η μετάφραση της Περιγραφής της Νήσου από τον επίσκοπο Γεωργειρήνη που βρίσκεται στο Παράρτημα. Εξαιρετική δουλειά, καθώς και ο σχολιασμός του μεταφραστή!

Tuesday August 28, 2006 – 12:18pm (EST)

Καποια στιγμη θα γραφω ενα αρθρο στο μπλογκ μου για το συντομο περασμα του Charles Perry απο την Ικαρια το 1738 με αφρρμή την παραγραφο που διαβασα στην εισαγωγη του βιβλιου.

Wednesday September 3, 2009 – 01:09pm (PST)


Thursday September 25, 2009 – 12:18pm (EST)

«Time and local Identity» -short questionnaire

Ioanna, a graduating student in Social Anthropology, is doing her Masters on «Time in relation with the local identity of Ikaria, particularly the area of Rahes».

Ioanna will be in the island in a few days. Meanwhile, in order to test the ground and «catch the climate», she uploaded a questionnaire in

Ioanna’squestionnaire is very simple and appears as a poll. Because the subject interests me a lot and since my blog supports polls, I took it from the group and brought it here for as many of you to vote. You don’t have to be «connected to my blog» to do this. You can enter your vote after just signing in with a simple Yahoo ID.
If you wish, you can write to her and say more.

So here is the question:

«Clocks are out of place in Ikaria, a place where time runs differently, slower, without pressure and stress. The rythm of life on the island is, if not the most important, one of its most important characteristics«.

This is what sometimes people say. What do YOU say?

See statement and question in entry above
I absolutely agree; the quote describes a proven reality
The quote is valid only partially; for its most it describes an artificial image
It describes a situation valid only for the tourists, not for the residents
I disagree; this is a distorted image of the island and a negative stereotype; has to be refuted
I don’t have a clear opinion on the matter


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wake up those nice girls; it’s a beautiful ikarian sleep but they will be roasted !

Wednesday July 12, 2006 – 02:09pm (EEST)

She (Ioanna not the sunbather necessarily) will have read the anthropologist Edward T Hall’s ‘The Dance of Life: the other dimension of time’ but she may not have read his memoire of his time among the Hopi and Navajo as a young man – ‘West of The Thirties’ – where he discovers what different time concepts different peoples have – i love this book.

Thursday July 13, 2006 – 12:00am (CEST)

very helpful; I hope Ioanna reads this.
(she is neither of the sunbathers but if she becomes one, then what? …)

Thursday July 13, 2006 – 04:48am (PDT)

she will appear with a good tan when she presents her thesis and the professors will appreciate because it will prove that she worked «on the field», not only at her desk and in the library.

Saturday July 15, 2006 – 03:03pm (EEST)

«Foret de Bouconne» ? What does this have to do with Ikaria?


as much I Imagelike the nomad backpackers, as much I like those people who have adopted and cherish only one particular place on earth. I can be a fancy tourist resort, a park, a block of houses in a town, just a street, a beach, a starved African country, a desert, a forest, a noman’s land, a wasteland. All these places for those people are *islands* : bigger than an average sized appartment, smaller than the earth, the ideal size for someone to have the illusion of ownership, or rather let’s say *control*, or at least a sense of *familiarity*.
Exactly the same as chimps, humans are territorial. Some are Abels (residents), some are Kains (nomads). I’m turning and tending to become an Abel Image these years. I’m learning to admire the residents. I found many people like that in Flickr. There is one Imagethat I like very much. Exactly like me who take only pictures of Ikaria, he takes pictures of only a forest, «Foret de Bouconne» in the Northern Pyrenees near the city of Toulouse, France. This forest is this man’s island, his isolation, (has become a part of) his identity.


There’s nothing spectacular or exotic about that particular forest. For sure it’s not Tolkien’s Fangorn. Oaks and beeches and mushrooms and streams and probably deer and wild boar as well like in the forest around Asterix’s cartoon village. It’s a European forest; how boring, how wonderful. I kissed and was kissed for the first time in a forest like this *; how commonplace, how unforgetable. But why?

Because if I kissed for the first time in Tahiti or in Brazil I wouldn’t remember it. It would be part of the setting, a Image*must do* thing. But I remember that kiss Imagein that boring neat forest, because that boring neat forest is a part of my boring neat identity, my boring neat personality, my boring neat sense of «my own territory*. I kissed Imageand was kissed in a place that I understand and I’m familiar with, the same as some others kiss Imageinside the closet of their parent’s boring neat bedroom and yet the fact stays unforgetable.
There is another boringly neat and wonderful thing about the «Foret de Bouccones» : elle est geree par l’ association…! It is administrated, managed by someone! Why the exclamation marks? Because such a thing as «management of a territory» (how illusive it may be) is completely unknown in Greece. As I walk now across other forests, on the «trail of the elves» in Ikaria, my boring neat personality Imagerevolts.



The *grouvalina* in me shouts back: «let it be, let it burn, let it be wasted, let it be unknown and be nothing. Nothing is ours. We’ll light a fire of the debris in the middle of nothing and dance naked around it.»



«Oh yes, great», the boring neat me says -all cool, » We shouldn’t forget to reserve special places in the forest for this.» How neat, how bureaucratic, how boring and disgustingly European (and *western* in general), oh, there’s no other way but management, I’m afraid.

->With holes of *unmanagement* (for my *grouvalina* to dance) -ok, I’ll permit many holes. And anyway, these holes are created by themselves…<-

* there is no photo of me kissing in that link, you peeps ! It’s just a photo of a crosspath.

** I found the second wonderful photo of the forest in:
It was by ‘zian’ ( ) The original title is «Allee en automne – La brume s’engouffre dans cette allee de platanes. L’automne donne a ce lieu une pleiade de couleurs chaudes et envoutantes… «




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Elle, I am going to come and see the forests of Ikaria, such as they are, in 2007, God willing if the crick don’t rise. Mainland Greece too and maybe Santorini.

Wednesday April 19, 2006 – 02:14pm (PDT)

«Good machine» this forest. It has the same shape as Naxos island. You are amazing Elenitsa. You can relate anything to anything. You are right. Good machines connect. I saw in your Flickrs that you have been exchanging flowers between that forest and Ikaria. Cute. «No island is an island» to paraphrase the well known «no man is an island». Do you agree?
Greg, for «crick» my dictionary writes something like «pain in the back of the neck». Ikaria has warm springs to cure this. I don’t like the surroundings and the facilities but they say they are good. Visit the woods and visit Santorini too. Contrasts from all points of view!! Hiker, eh? I saw your Flickr. Your country is BIG -:)) As a very cool friend of mine said once after he visited the States, «The US, oh, it’s exactly like Greece, only much bigger!» -lol

Thursday April 20, 2006 – 02:33pm (EEST)

(…enticed out of the forest and into Compose a comment…)

Eleni, I am honoured, charmed that you have visited The Forest with your rusty internet connection and seen so clearly into its managed heart.

If you were not escaping too many books I would say how your thoughts put me in mind of a book I love – perhaps you have read it – called The Other Side of Eden by Hugh Brody, a man who has spent a lot of time with various hunter-gatherer communities on the margins of our planet. Once the human species was all hunter-gatherer, but then someone had the bright idea of… goats … and oats. The population swelled, sons and daughters had to move out, cities were built, a nomadic lifestyle began and the rest is history.

A quote from one of the less poetic and narrative parts of the book:

«The profound dichotomy that has shaped the agricultural era may lie in an opposition between nomads and settlers, between people for whom home is place of timeless constancy, a centre in which humanity itself arose, and those who are on the move and, if at rest, rest only while preparing for further movement. the paradox, of course, is that this is the divide between the settled hunters and the nomadic farmers.»

Both Cain and Abel were farmers, both replaced the hunter gatherer.

From a review of the book:
«ANTHROPOLOGIST Hugh Brody describes the visit to London of Anaviapik, an Inuit who had never previously left the Arctic. Anaviapik is disgorged from a British Airways plane on a hot summer’s day swathed in a fox-fur-trimmed parka and «wearing sealskin boots with brown trousers tucked into their patterned tops». To Brody’s relief, Anaviapik survives this visit with equanimity. One thing he never masters, however, is the built environment. Every day Brody teases him, challenging him to find the short way home from the Tube. Every day he fails: «How amazing that the Qallunaat [white people] live in cliffs. I would never be able to find my way here without you.»

Back in the vast, white, apparently indecipherable landscapes of the Arctic Anaviapik has no such problem. On one occasion, Brody travels hundreds of miles with him by dog sledge. En route, Anaviapik diverts to a place he has not visited since 1938. «How did you remember the way?» asks Brody. «Inuit cannot get lost in our own land. If we have done a journey once, we can always do it again.» This is one of the many instances which brings home to Brody the profound difference between hunter-gatherers’ attitude to the land and our own. Theirs is an intimate knowledge of the land’s contours, its seasons and creatures. A transformed landscape, dominated by man’s activities, is alien and unattractive to them.»

Anaviapik however remains cheerful, keen to talk to as many people as he can wherever he can. He builds up a picture of a society where everyone’s family lives somewhere else. He hates having to sleep in a room on his own.

Where am I going with this? Don’t know.
Simon G

Thursday April 20, 2006 – 05:27pm (CEST)

Nana, «crick» is American country slang for «creek,» a small stream. The full saying is «If God’s willing and the crick don’t rise,» as in high water or a flood, which presumably back in the day would impede or prevent travel. Yes I am a hiker, all my life, and I want to hike on Ikaria after seeing all of Eleni’s intriguing photos, and for the history. It is after all where Icarus washed ashore.

Thursday April 20, 2006 – 09:19am (PDT)

->One of my first favourite books was Giles Deleuze’s «Mille Plateaus». Then I read Brody too. Oh man, Simon G, I see that the ‘islands of trees’ have strong plethoric protectors. Thanks for that; oxyzen is my dope. Has anybody seen a forest after acid rain? I have.

-> Ah, Greg, that’s good news. Remember to ask our friend ‘Psalakanthos’ (Matt) about his experiences in Ikaria this year. He’s planning to visit other islands too. He’d better do that before mid-July when the pretty girls land.

Thursday April 20, 2006 – 12:45pm (PDT)

ΚΑΛΗ ΑΝΑΣΤΑΣΗ, ΕΛΕΝΗ !!! Happy Easter.
You are no cook, but I bet you can dye eggs red. Let’s have a photo. Or are there too many friends around and you too busy? Jimmy P is right to ask for photos of people. But you never ‘shoot people’. You talk and offer drinks («Zorba beer» -what’s that? Couldn’t believe my eyes. Another of Nana’s «inventions»?).

Friday April 21, 2006 – 02:40pm (EEST)

Bouconne is the «lung» of the city of Toulouse and the Toulousiens are very wise to preserve and to manage it. Who is Ikaria the «lung» of?
Is it a «party island» like Mykonos, Ios and Paros? «Party islands» are «lungs» too, in a way. But I doubt Ikaria is one.
I read a UN report saying that by now 1/2 of the world’s population live in cities. So which city people is (potentially) Ikaria the lung of? None’s? The Athenian suburbia’s? The philosophers’?
Find this and you will have the key to its preservation.
Tough, eh? Tough stuff turns you on. So prove it.

from Prof Athina assisted by the senior USDA staff

Friday April 21, 2006 – 10:26pm (EEST)

Let’s sit here sheltered under the rich spring foliage of the ‘Foret de Bouconne’ where very few people will hear us:
Yes, Prof Fiend Fulvia, the USDA is right: Ikaria is ‘the lung’ of the Athenian suburbia. The amount and the account of this influence was not included in the outstanding ‘Rebels and Radicals -Ikaria 1600-2000′ How could this be done from America? Even in Greece there is only one good book about the suberbia and that was a novel: Soti’s Triantafyllou, «Savato Vrady stin Akri tis Polis’. The writer has visited Ikaria more than once, I think. She nearly drowned once in the waves of Messakti beach.
I tend to believe that this relation between the suburbs and Ikaria would explain much of the famous *Ikarian enigma*. Not that I’m particularly interested in solving it. I want to know how the trick works, so that I reproduce it -;)) *weirdo* & *funny* & as genuine popular expression -LOL

Saturday April 22, 2006 – 04:14am (PDT)

Born and raised in the «suburbia» at a certain point in my life I got tired of seeing Ikaria as a «lung». It was too far from Athens (9 hours by boat). Something had to be done about it. So I moved and settled permanently inside it. I’d hate Ikaria becomes a suberb of a suberb of a city. This will mean that I will have to look for another «lung» for me and my family. A reasonable alternative for a suberb is …what? A PARK, of course! (with holes? yes, ok, with holes and lotsa fun -no problem)

__\\Buconne//__ is ‘cool’ I like it a lot.

Monday April 24, 2006 – 08:39pm (EEST)