His island of freedom


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Eleni on Mavri rocks

Hello readers! 🙂
how long has it been since I last wrote a blog review properly speaking – that is, to review something written by someone I don’t know? I think the last one was about Jackie Fox, the Ikarian/American who posted a whole series of wonderful articles about her life in Ikaria during the year 2012-13. Jackie published on WordPress so it was easy for me to spot her and connect to her blog articles. But this time I have in hand a rather unusual case: a facebook blogger! His name is Tolga, he is from Izmir, Turkey and he keeps a blog which he calls: «Tolga’s travels». As I am not on facebook, it wouldn’t be possible to know anything about him, but fortunately and unexpectedly his blog is public! So here I am, hard-working, cool blogger Eleni, I am blogging about his doings in Ikaria!
As I always do, I will let him speak on his own. But before that,
just let me say only two things: a) Tolga comes from Izmir, a city geographically and historically associated with our islands. It’s so close and so big that in some winter nights when the clouds are low I can see the glow of the lights of his city in the east! b) Some Turks like Tolga, also like a lot of people who come from the countries of the Eastern Mediterranean, incarnate the legendary Oriental Oral Narrator – in simpler words, they know how to tell a story and capture the listener!
Go Tolga, speak about my island – your island of freedom!
😊

As always in my blog reviews, the pictures direct to the full posts in the source -in this case, facebook. There you will find more photos with a few words for each. As you will see, I have borrowed some quotes from Tolga’s posts.  Goes without saying that I am solely responsible for my choices.

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Tolga’s Ikaria : Foreword

Foreword: 'I was one of those kids who loved looking at maps. We didn’t have Google Maps back then, but there were mighty world atlases and we had one of those at home. I would place it on the floor and lose myself in it. I would travel from country to country, mountain to ocean. I was always mesmerized by the map of the Aegean Sea. Perhaps because it was home, perhaps because hundreds of islands scattered across my big blue sea would allow me to create thousands of fantasies in my head, it was a magical map. From his terrace, my grandpa would point out the mountains rising from the sea several miles away and say...'

«…but then, there was another island. One that was somehow magical, and for no special reason. One that I picked for myself, my fantasy island, my island. When I told the name, very few people would have heard of it, even though it was so close to where we lived. In my child’s mind, I would be the king of my island and my own civilization. I would declare my independence lying on the floor of my bedroom, lost in the map. It was years later, when I started reading about it, I was surprised to see that my island was of the same mindset, that it had actually declared its independence in 1912, had its own flag, its own anthem, even if it had lasted for only five months. Yes, that was definitely my island…»

Tolga’s Ikaria : Day 1 – Arrival

Day 1 Arrival: 'Getting to Ikaria is no easy task, I’ll tell you. Despite being one of the largest of the Aegean islands, it seems to be somehow left out of the grid. Although it is clearly visible from the Turkish coast, it is easier to get to Mykonos or Santorini then Ikaria. Well, I hope it will stay that way. The day started early. At 6:30, I was on the bus to Kusadasi. I was sure I had a solid plan – funny me. As there are no direct boats to Ikaria from Turkey, I first had to reach Samos, from where fer-ries run to Agios Kirykos, the administrative centre of Ikaria, couple of times a week – Yes, you cannot just go to Ikaria whichever day you feel like, you have to plan!'

«Getting to Ikaria is no easy task, I’ll tell you. Despite being one of the largest of the Aegean islands, it seems to be somehow left out of the grid. Although it is clearly visible from the Turkish coast, it is easier to get to Mykonos or Santorini then Ikaria. Well, I hope it will stay that way…»

«The entertaining bit of the trip though was to overhear (ok, not overhear, simply listen, yes I like lis-tening to others’ conversations, shush!) twenty something Istanbulites discussing which beach clubs they should go to in Samos. I’m not going to get into details, but I will tell you this much: some of the Turks really have the wrong idea about the Greek islands. They get on the boat to Samos or Chios thinking they will find the same boom boom – fuck me – boom beach clubs they go to in Cesme or Bodrum, and then they are heavily disappointed. Aegean islands, perhaps with the excep-tion of Mykonos and Santorini, is about peace and tranquillity, and very very good ouzo…»

«.So here I am, sitting on my wooden throne on the beach, adoring my kingdom. I just had the most delicious grilled squid and am on my third glass of white wine. Stars are shining, there’s a gentle Greek tune coming from the back, and the sound of the waves from the front. There’s a brave woman going for a swim. Life is good. So far, I love my kingdom.»

Tolga’s Ikaria : Day 2 – Agios Kirykos

Day 2: 'Mornings of any Aegean trip has the same theme: wake up (preferably not too late), instead of jumping under the shower, jump into the sea, sit at a café, have a bite, have a coffee, and another coffee and another one. Why should today be any different? An insight to travelling in Ikaria: public transport on the island is virtually non-existent. There are two buses...'

«Mornings of any Aegean trip has the same theme: wake up (preferably not too late), instead of jumping under the shower, jump into the sea, sit at a café, have a bite, have a coffee, and another coffee and another one. Why should today be any different?»

«Ag. Kirykos is a nice island town (town – village – town? whatever), but nothing spectacular. Nice cafés by the coast to enjoy your book. Few pebble beaches around – not very comfy, but the sea is much warmer than in the nearby islands of Samos and Chios. Nice people. Yeah, that’s it. Summary of the day: swim, have coffee, read book, walk around, have more coffee, plan the next day, have another dip in the sea, and another coffee – yeah that’s really it.»

«Although Greece gained its independence from the Ottoman Empire in 1827, East Aegean Islands still remained part of the empire. In July 1912, the Ikarians said that they had enough with that and revolted under the leadership of a chap named Ioannis Malahias. The Ottomans had their own prob-lems like World War I, so as a result, Free State of Ikaria was declared an independent country on July 17th. Of course, it wasn’t the easiest of times. And with no dowry, no money, no family background, Ikarians had to be glad to be annexed by Greece only five months later in November. To this day, Ikarians are extremely proud of those five months and all around the island, you can see more Free State flags than Greek ones. The flag has a dark blue background with a white cross in the middle – basically Swiss flag turned blue.  🙂 »

Tolga’s Ikaria : Day 3 – Chalares Canyon, Nas, Armenistis

Day 3 – Chalares Canyon, Nas, Armenistis: 'The alarm started ringing at 7:00 am and I got out of the bed at once. The sun was slowly rising over Fourni putting a big smile on my face. Try to wake me up so early during the work week and God knows what I’ll do to you, but today I have a mission: I’m gonna claim the mountains of my island! I had bought stuff for today’s lunch from yesterday evening. All I needed was bread. At this hour, there are only two places open in Therma: the bakery, and interestingly enough, the thermal baths. As you would guess from the name, Therma is known for its thermal baths and you can see oldies in white bathrobes...'

«To get from the south to the north of the island, you have to go up and down the high mountains that run like the spine of Ikaria. The view on both sides is simply breath-taking. One has to be care-ful enjoying the view while driving in Ikaria though. The roads are all very narrow – at some points to the degree that two cars cannot pass at the same time. On one side of the road, there are rocks and on the other side, cliffs several hundred meters high and more rocks at the bottom. Not to worry, you are more likely to come across a goat than a car while driving on the island anyway.»

«I arrived at Nas, at the northwest end of the island towards ten o’clock. Nas is a very small village with a few hotels and restaurants that took the healthy-trendy line. Everything here is organic, healthy, super food and stuff. It’s not difficult to imagine people doing yoga on the beach at sun-rise, which I’m sure they do.»

«Ikaria has an unbelievable amount of well-marked and well-kept walking trails – one might say bet-ter marked and kept than the roads themselves. The one I was going to try today was starting at Nas and following the river along the Chalares Canyon. As the trails are never ending, I decided to walk as long as I found reasonable, then return back either using the same route or some alternative path.»

Tolga’s Ikaria : Day 4 – Evdilos, Kampos and around

Day 4 – Evdilos, Kampos and around: 'The northerly autumn winds begun caressing Ikaria this morning. The sun is still strong, but you know that it is not going to last long. Colors of the season started showing themselves on the trees at higher altitudes. It is the best time of the Aegean. The first activity of the day was a leisurely hike. After covering my feet with band-aid – I am kinda starting to see the wisdom in socks with sandals thing, but not in this lifetime – I decided to take the dirt roads going up from Kampos. It was not going to be anything difficult like yesterday’s, just a few hours of sightseeing really. The roads gently ascend the hills passing by farms and vineyards. After a few dead ends, I seem to have found my way. In any case, if you get really lost lost, just walk down till you meet the sea, not that hard.'

«The northerly autumn winds begun caressing Ikaria this morning. The sun is still strong, but you know that it is not going to last long. Colors of the season started showing themselves on the trees at higher altitudes. It is the best time of the Aegean.»

«The roads gently ascend the hills passing by farms and vineyards. After a few dead ends, I seem to have found my way. In any case, if you get really lost lost, just walk down till you meet the sea, not that hard.»

«As the altitude increased, bushes and olive trees left the scene to pine forest. At the end, I reached my destination point: Theoktistis Monastery. It is really a small monastery this one, but sitting on top of the mountain, the view is well worth the climb. There is a small church at the very entrance with your typical Greek icons and what not. As you climb a bit more though, you come across an-other tiny church which drops your jaw. Imagine that there’s this big rock on the ground, then they built block walls on it, and then using what mythical creature god knows, they placed a gigantic rock on top of it all to serve as a roof. Walking around the church, you realize that the roof bit is ac-tually a massive rock cantilevering out of the mountain. They just built a block wall in between the two rocks. Okay, now it makes sense. It’s a tiny tiny church by the way, the door is barely a meter high or so, you really need to bend down to get in.»

Tolga’s Ikaria : Day 5 – Manganitis

Day 5 – Manganitis : there are no words here, just photos. The words are in the description of the 6th day.

«The south coast of Ikaria is rugged, harsh, so rocky that in most places depriving the trees of the least bit of soil to hang on to. This makes it very difficult for humans to settle, but it is a playground for the goats. These steep hills also shelter some of the most beautiful, tiny, isolated beaches you can find on the island, of which, Seychelles Beach has unequivocal reputation.»

«Here’s another interesting note about Ikaria: After the Greek Civil War of 1946-1949 between the nationalists and the communists, the Greek government used Ikaria as an exile location for the de-feated commies. Some 13,000 people affiliated with the Greek Communist Party, KKE, were sent to the island. Considering the current population of Ikaria is just 8,500, you can well imagine the impact of this relocation on the island’s political demographics. And which party do you think wins all the elections on the island today? Yes, you guessed it right :). Even today, the island is referred to by many Greeks as the Red Rock. It is funny though, Ikarians are also very devout Orthodox Christians. Nowhere else have I seen communism and religion going so much hand in hand, but then again, Ikaria is not just any place.»

«…the highlight of the whole day, perhaps the trip, was the tiny, beautiful, under-stated Manganitis village. With houses overlooking the vast blueness that is the Aegean and the cutest little harbour, this fishing village offers the real isolated Greek island beauty in one’s imagination. And the deli-cious Ikarian ratatouille cooked from vegetables grown by the owner of the taverna himself in his backyard, accompanied by a glass of Mythos… for some people, there is heaven, eden, paradise to go to; for the likes of me, there is Manganitis.»

Tolga’s Ikaria : Day 6 – Departure

Day 6 – Departure: 'The south coast of Ikaria is rugged, harsh, so rocky that in most places depriving the trees of the least bit of soil to hang on to. This makes it very difficult for humans to settle, but it is a playground for the goats. These steep hills also shelter some of the most beautiful, tiny, isolated beaches you can find on the island, of which, Seychelles Beach has unequivocal reputation. Here’s another interesting note about Ikaria: After the Greek Civil War of 1946-1949 between the nationalists and the communists, the Greek government used Ikaria as an exile location for the de-feated commies. Some 13,000 people affiliated with the Greek Communist Party, KKE, were sent to the island. Considering the current population...'

«Today, I will have a few beers and enjoy my book until the Dodekanisos Seaways hydrofoil takes me to Pythagoreio in Samos, from where I will board the boat back to Kusadasi. I have one and a half hours between the two boats, I hope the connection will be less dramatic than the last one.»

«I have to express my gratitude to the amazing island of Ikaria, for treating me like the king that I am and allowing me to reign over it for six long days – much longer than many mighty nations tried to do. It would be unwise though to outstay my welcome, for I know that the spirit of Ikaria is all about freedom. I will surely miss this red little rock of mine and who knows, perhaps one day…»

«Autumn winds increased their strength over Ikaria today. Gone are the long, warm days of the summer. Whether you like it or not, change is on its way. Things are about to get different, and different we will have to embrace.»

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Come again Tolga! Maybe your ancestors and my ancestors were related! Maybe they were friends!
Let’s be friends too! 😊

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💠 💠 💠
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👩 Eleni

September 20, 2016

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Ικαρία & Φούρνοι: μια εξερεύνηση


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Alexias Ikarian GuidebookΓεια σας αναγνωστες 🙂


Σημερα γραφω με χαρα στα Ελληνικα γιατι το θεμα μου ειναι Ελληνικο και μαλιστα αφορα ενα καλο βιβλιο για την Ικαρια! Μπορει να πειτε πως κανονικα δεν θα ‘πρεπε να γραψω αφου
ειμαι τοσο παθιασμενη, οντας ολοσωμο κι ολοψυχο το μπλογκ μου αφιερωμενο σ’ αυτο το νησι, αρα η κριτικη μου δεν θα ειναι αντικειμενικη. Ομως εγω οταν χρειαζεται ξερω να συγκρατω το παθος μου. Εξαλλου εχω αλητεψει ταξιδεψει αρκετα και ξερω καλα οτι η Ικαρια δεν ειναι το κεντρο του κοσμου καθως επισης εχει και παρα πολλα μειονεκτηματα. Ετσι νομιζω οτι θα τα καταφερω να γραψω μια νηφαλια κριτικη. Θα βοηθουσε επισης αν σας ελεγα οτι οχι μονο δεν εχω μετοχες στον εκδοτικο οικο που βγαζει το βιβλιο αλλα ουτε καν γνωριζω τη συγγραφεα. Καποτε μονο διαβασα μερικα γραπτα και ειδα φωτογραφιες της και μου φανηκε πως ηταν καλο παιδι. Ετσι απλα.
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Crouched photographer in EMF & land erosion.

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Οταν λοιπον εκανε την πρωτη ερευνα για το βιβλιο, μου εγραψε και μου ζητησε φωτογραφιες για την εκδοση. Τοτε ηταν που ειχα ζησει πανω απο 1/2 χρονο στην Ικαρια και μου ειχε κανει μεγαλη εντυπωση που δεν υπηρχε σχεδον καθολου εγκυρο δημοσιευμενο υλικο για τον τοπο που ζουσα. Τοσο που γνωστοι και φιλοι, συνεργατες στη δουλεια, ξεροντας τον χαρακτηρα μου, νομιζαν οτι ειχα κατοικησει σε καποια χιππικη βραχονησιδα με σπηλιες! 😮 Ετσι της εδωσα φωτογραφιες με χαρα και ανακουφιση, νιωθοντας απο ενστικτο οτι η Αλεξια θα εγραφε απλα και τιμια, με διασταυρωμενα στοιχεια και καλη επιλογη θεματων, και ιδιως χωρις κουφιες εμπορικες καλολογιες. Πραγματι, τωρα που κρατησα στα χερια μου το αντιτυπο που μου χάρισε, βλεπω πως ειχα δικιο. Αυτος ο ταξιωτικος οδηγος ειναι τοσο αμεσος κι απλος που
εκτος απο «Εξερευνηση», θα μπορουσε να εχει τιτλο: «Ικαρια και Φουρνοι: Εξ επαφης»! ^^’
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Proud Alexia and her Guidebook about Ikaria.

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Το καλο πραγμα αργει να γινει. Μεχρι να εκδοθει σωστα το βιβλιο της Αλεξιας γνωρισε μεγαλες περιπετειες. Απο κοινους γνωστους εμαθα οτι αντι να της ανατεθει η αποστολη απο καποιο αφεντικο, εκεινη ηταν που πηγε και χτυπησε «μεγαλες πορτες» ζητώντας την αναθεση η οποια της δοθηκε μεν, ομως η εκδοση, αν και με τρανταχτη υπογραφη γνωστων εκδοσεων του χωρου, πηγε κακην κακως στη διανομη, δεν έφτασε στα ραφια και τελικα εξαφανιστηκε. 😮
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On slippery grounds....

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Ομως η Αλεξια επεμεινε. Σε συννενοηση με την Καριωτικη παρεα του ηλεκτρονικου περιοδικου ikariamag τμηματα του βιβλιου εμφανιστηκαν στο «Ο,τι χρειαζεστε για το νησι» οπου φαινεται πως ειχαν μεγαλη επισκεψιμοτητα, ελεγχθηκαν απο τους αναγνωστες και αναγνωριστηκε η εγκυροτητα τους. Ετσι ψηθηκε η ιδεα για μια νεα ενημερωμενη εκδοση η οποια βγηκε τελικα το Δεκεμβρη του 2015 απο τις Εκδοσεις «Ελευθερες Πτησεις» που συνδεονται με το περιοGood signal, thank you!δικο και άρα το θεωρω απιθανο η εκδοση να εξαφανιστει κι αυτη απο τα ραφια. 😉 🙂
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Εκτος απο τikariamag.gr/ikariastore/product/10608α βιβλιοπωλεια, το «Ικαρια & Φουρνοι: μια εξερευνηση» θα βρειτε σιγουρα στο ηλεκτρονικο καταστημα ikariastore. Εχει 370 σελιδες και κοστιζει 15.00€. Παρακατω θα σας εξηγησω γιατι αξιζει να το αγορασετε. Πρωτα ομως ας δουμε τι γραφει στην εισαγωγη η ίδια η Αλεξια για το βιβλιο της:
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«Το παραδέχομαι, δεν την είχα συμπαθήσει όταν την είχα πρωτοδεί την Ικαρία. Ούτε που την ένοιξε βέβαια αυτήν. Δεν με είχε ανάγκη βλέπεις, ούτε εμένα ούτε κανέναν. Ωστόσο δεν κατόρθωσε να με ξεφορτωθεί τόσο εύκολα. Καθώς περνούσαν τα χρόνια, κάπως τα ΄φερε η ζωή κι επέστρεψα, αυτή τη φορά κάτω από τελείως διαφορετικές συνηθήκες. Η Νίκη κι ο Βασίλης με πήγανε παντού, με φρόντισαν, μου έμαθαν ικαριώτικο, με βοήθησαν να μην αισθάνομαι ενοχές που δεν βιάζομαι, με πήγανε στη ντίσκο στις 5 το πρωί και μάντεψε: τελικά τη λάτρεψα την Ικαρία!..»

«Μετά δεν ήθελε και πολύ. Ξαναπήγα και ξαναπήγα και ξαναπήγα, γνώρισα κι άλλους φανταστικούς ανθρώπους και τελικά έγραψα ένα βιβλίο. Ο στόχος τώρα -όπως και τότε- παραμένει ο ίδιος: ν’ απολαύσετε και να αγαπήσετε αυτόν τον τόπο γι’ αυτό που είναι και όχι γιατί σας το προτείνω εγώ. Κάθε τόπος άλλωστε είναι σαν ένας ξεχωριστός άνθρωπος. Με τα χρόνια φτιάχνει την προσωπικότητά του, ζώντας τις δικές του μοναδικές εμπειρίες, κάτω από διαφορετικές επιδράσεις. Κάπως έτσι γράφεται τελικά η ιστορία του, όποια κι αν είναι αυτή…»

«Ανοίγοντας το βήμα για να φτάσεις στα πιο απομονωμένα σημεία, χάνεσαι μέσα σε ανήλιαγα αρχαία δάση, διασχίζεις ορμητικούς λουλουδιασμένους ποταμούς, βουτάς μέσα σε χρυσαφένιες παραλίες, διψάς μέσα στην πέτρα και τη σκόνη, ξαποσταίνεις σε καταπράσινα προστατευτικά δέντρα. Μέσα σ’ αυτόν τον ταξιδιωτικό οδηγό θα βρεις τον τρόπο να φτάσεις στα πιο κρυφά σημεία της Ικαρίας και των Φούρνων, θα γνωρίσεις ηλιοκαμένους ανθρώπους που κατέχουν το μυστικό της μακροζωίας και θα ανακαλύψεις γιατί ο Ίκαρος διάλεξε να πέσει ακριβώς εκεί…»

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Κι εγω τωρα σας λεω να το παρετε γιατι:
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tourist instructions ikaria august

  • Η Αλεξια εφαρμοζει πιστα τους βασικους κανονες του καλου ταξιδιωτικου βιβλιου. Χωρις να θεωρει τιποτα σαν δεδομενο ή αυτονοητο, γίνεται σύντροφος του ταξιδιωτη και τον καθοδηγει να κινηθει στο νησι και εφοσον θελει, να ξετρυπωσει κρυμενα περασματα σε μυστηριωδεις πραγματικοτητες που η Ικαρια διαθετει αφθονες, πιο πολλες απο καθε αλλο Ελληνικο νησί. 🙄 😉 >:D.
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Break on through to the other side ☀ yeah ! Our guide ikaria

  • Εχει ξεκαθαρισει σε ποιους απευθυνεται. Η Ικαρια της Αλεξιας δεν ειναι για ταξιδιωτες μαθημενους στα ευκολα. Ξερει που ειναι ολα τα αγκαθια, τα βραχια, οι αποτομες στροφες κι οι γκρεμοι, ενω θεματα περιβαλλοντος, τοπικης οικονομιας, τροπου ζωης και κοινωνικων συνθηκων ειναι σε πρωτο πλανο σε ολα τα κεφαλαια του βιβλιου, διχως ωστοσο περιττους εγκυκλοπαιδισμους. Σ’ αυτα τα θεματα εμεις οι γυναικες ειμαστε πιο πρακτικες απ’ τους αντρες. 😉 🙂.
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Adobe in the rocks

  • Αν και ολοφανερα δεμενη με τον τοπο, εχει το θαρρος της αποψης και της επιλογης των θεματων. Μετα τη θαυμασια εισαγωγη για τη γεωγραφια, την ιστορια, την κουλτουρα, την αρχιτεκτονικη και τις παραδοσεις, διαιρει το βιβλιο σε οκτω διαδρομές στις οποιες μας παει βημα-βημα, δινει τα highlights, καποια αφηνει απεξω, εννοειται, ευτυχως, δεν ειναι εγκυκλοπαιδεια ουτε χρυσος οδηγος! 🙄.

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All Ikaria map web

  • Οι χαρτες! Οι χαρτες! Οι χαρτες! ^^’
    Οι φωτογραφιες! Οι φωτογραφιες! ^^’
    Οι πρακτικες πληροφοριες και τα μικρα, πολυ χρησιμα, τιπς 😎


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Overgrazed Ikarian mountain Atheras

  • Δεν γινοταν να λειπουν οι αναφορες στις χτυπητες ιδιαιτεροτητες μας. Τα πανηγυρια ⭐ οι «γκρουβαλοι» 😎 η διαφορετικη αισθηση του χρονου 😳 το οχι/ναι καμπινγκ 🙄 η μακροζωια 😉 – για ολα αυτα (και αλλα που δεν τα ξερετε) η Αλεξια καταθετει την αποψη της θαρρετα, γλαφυρα και με χιουμορ 😀 αλλα δεν παραλειπει κιολας να καταγγειλει τα πολλα σκουπιδια, τα παρατημενα αυτοκινητα, την συχνη ελλειψη αρχιτεκτονικης καλαισθησιας και την αδιαφορια για το περιβαλλον οπως π.χ. στο θεμα της υπερβοσκησης που ερημοποιει τα βουνα του νησιου. 😦

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Ikarian Ridge Walk Oct 30 22

  • Μιας και μιλησα για βουνα, σε καθε κεφαλαιο του βιβλιου γινονται πολλες αναφορες στην πεζοπορια: ειτε για το πολυ απλο, δηλαδη για να φτασει κανεις σε μια απομονωμενη παραλια [«καβατζα» 😀 ] ειτε για μεγαλυτερες διαδρομες οπως π.χ. το Φαραγγι της Χαλαρης ή τον Γυρο του Δασους του Ραντη. Ομως δεν επεκτεινεται πολυ και κανει καλα. Η πεζοπορια/ορειβασια στην Ικαρια ειναι ξεχωριστο, πολυ μεγαλο κεφαλαιο που γι’ αυτο θα αξιζε να γραφτει εξειδικευμενος ταξιδιωτικος οδηγος. 🙄

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Food, pebbles and headstands: coffee!

  • Τελος, ηθελα να πω οτι δεν εχω δει καλυτερο καταλογο δωματιων, ξενοδοχειων, εστιατοριων, μπαρ κτλ. Βρισκονται μετα απο καθε κεφαλαιο στο τελος καθε διαδρομης και απορησα που τα ξερει, γιατι στην Ικαρια ουτε τα μισα κομοντιτις δεν βρισκονται στον κεντρικο δρομο αλλα ειναι κρυμμενα σε μακρινες πλαγιες και ραχουλες! Μαλιστα η Αλεξια δηλωνει οτι για αυτη τη ξεχωρη δουλεια δεν ζητησε κι ουτε πηρε δεκαρα. Φυσικα την πιστευω! Κι εσεις να ακολουθησετε τις συμβουλες της γιατι ειναι γυναικα μερακλου προφανως. ^^’

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Το Πέλαγος του Βοριά: We gaze Icarian Sea

  • Προσωπικά εγω διαβασα το βιβλιο της με περιεργεια αλλα κυριως με μεγαλη ανακουφιση. Η περιεργεια μου ικανοποιηθηκε με το παραπανω γιατι εμαθα πολλα πραγματα που δεν ηξερα. Πιο πολυ ομως ενιωσα ανακουφιση γιατι εχουμε ενα καλο τουριστικο τυφλοσουρτη επιτελους! Να μη χρειαζεται καθε φορα που συνανταμε ενα ξενο να του κανουμε σεμιναριο, αλλα να του λεμε:
    -Αγορασε αυτο το βιβλιο, ειναι καλο, το διαβαζουμε κι εμεις οι Καριωτες. Διαβασε το κι ελα μετα, οποτε θες,  να τα πουμε με πιο πολλες λεπτομερειες! 😀
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me fairy muddy Αυτα απο μενα τη Λενη και γεια σας, χαρα σας. 🙂

πηγΙκαρια - Φουρνοι: μια εξερευνηση στο facebookαινετε τωρα αν θελετε να δειτε τη
σελιδα του βιβλιου της Αλεξιας στο facebook
⭐ ⭐ ⭐


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Η Αλεξια και το βιβλιο της στο facebook Σημ: Η Αλεξια δεν ειναι απο την Ικαρια ή τους Φουρνους. Γεννηθηκε και μεγαλωσε στην Αθηνα, σπουδασε στο τμημα ΕΜΜΕ του Πανεπιστημιου Αθηνων και λιγο αργοτερα βρεθηκε για μεταπτυχιακα στην Αγγλια και την Ολλανδια. Εργαστηκε στο χωρο της δημοσιογραφιας, της επικοινωνιας και της εκπαιδευσης και απο το 2014 εχει μεταναστευσει στη Μεση Ανατολη. Λατρευει τα εξερευνητικα ταξιδια, ενω η συγγραφη αποτελει γι’ αυτην καταφυγιο. Το «Ικαρια & Φουρνοι: μια εξερευνηση» ειναι το πρωτο της βιβλιο και το πιο αγαπημενο της δημιουργημα στη μεχρι τωρα ζωη της. Το mail της ειναι: alexia.palesti@gmail.com

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Ικαρια, 24 Μαρτιου 2016

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Thick with the eerie awe of the uncanny


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Ikaria 1 by Thomas K. Shor

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. Hello readers! .Angelos K.

My name is Angelos K. and since I was nominated contributor I am afraid I have written very few entries in this blog. Let’s say that I was saving my blogging skills for special occasions. And as I hope you can tell from the introductory picture, this is a special occasion. The place is Pezi plateau located on the western part of Ikaria island, Greece. The time is two years ago, between December and January 2013. The photographer is Thomas K. Shor, an American writer, photographer and traveller. He and his wife Barbara appeared out of the blue in Ikaria in the middle of a cloudy and rainy winter. During their stay we hiked (a little), we talked (a lot) and we became good friends. Apparently, they liked the island, because they visited us two times. Between their visits I had the chance to read two of Thomas’s books, «A Step Away from Paradise» and «The Master Director» and although I know very little about the places where the action takes place, I liked both of them very much.

While in Ikaria Thomas often carried a camera but I didn’t pay much attention to the fact. Americans are well-known to carry cameras. Until one day when he came to the house and showed to me a pack of high quality B/W prints. Knowing that I am a hiker and an amateur photographer, and therefore, I was familiar with the locations and the subjects, he asked for my opinion about his work. I was all admiration! As a matter of fact, I couldn’t keep my fingers off those prints! Through the years I have seen a lot of great pictures from the desolate landscapes of our mountains but these ones were special. Moreover, they were 100% «Ikaria» and not, as it so often happens, overprocessed creations which, no matter how beautiful they are, I label them «fiction» and I don’t usually give them a second glance. 😕

I immediately told Eleni about Thomas work and as most of her blog is dedicated to photography, she told me to ask for Thomas’s permission and left the door open for me to get in and post an entry. And so I did.

As is the way of this blog, the pictures below work as clickable «mirrors» reflecting the originals inside Thomas’s website. In spaces between them I have inserted quotes from his presentation which I thought was very to the point. Especially that phrase in the last paragraph which (on Eleni’s suggestion) made the title of this entry: «Thick with the eerie awe of the uncanny«. Because we love ghost stories in Ikaria. How couldn’t we? Just take a look of those shots! Thomas has managed to show that these shapes, these shades, these forms, are alive. More than that, they can talk and tell stories!

⭐ ⭐ ⭐

 

..........Copyright © 2015 Thomas K. Shor. All rights reserved........
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Ikaria 2 by Thomas K. Shor Ikaria 3 by Thomas K. Shor
. .Ikaria 4 by Thomas K. Shor Ikaria 6 by Thomas K. Shor
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«THE ISLAND OF IKARIA is distinctive for various reasons. It remains to this day an untouristed backwater where people are largely self-sufficient and unusually independently minded. It has been labeled one of the “Blue Zones,” with the highest percentage of people in their nineties on the planet.»

. .Ikaria 5 by Thomas K. Shor Ikaria 7 by Thomas K. Shor
. .Ikaria 8 by Thomas K. Shor
. .Ikaria 9 by Thomas K. Shor Ikaria 10 by Thomas K. Shor
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«Historically, it was the poorest island in the Aegean. It is also one of the lushest, with numerous springs and rivers and forests of pine and oak.»

Ikaria 12 by Thomas K. Shor

Ikaria 11 by Thomas K. ShorIkaria 13 by Thomas K. ShorIkaria 14 by Thomas K. ShorIkaria 15 by Thomas K. Shor

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. .Ikaria 16 by Thomas K. ShorIkaria 17 by Thomas K. Shor
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«Yet the landscape photographs I have been taking over the course of a couple of extended stays reflect nothing of this lushness and hardly depict any people.»

. .Ikaria 18 by Thomas K. ShorIkaria 19 by Thomas K. Shor
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Ikaria 20 by Thomas K. ShorIkaria 21 by Thomas K. Shor
Ikaria 22 by Thomas K. ShorIkaria 23 by Thomas K. Shor
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«The island is long and thin, a single mountain ridge rising sharply out of the Aegean Sea not far from the coast of Turkey. At the top of this ridge, topped by numerous 3,000 foot (1,000 meter) peaks, is a landscape that haunted and excited me from the moment I set eyes on it.»

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. .Ikaria 24 by Thomas K. ShorIkaria 26 by Thomas K. Shor
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. .Ikaria 25 by Thomas K. Shor
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. . .Ikaria 26 by Thomas K. Shor Ikaria 28 by Thomas K. Shor
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. .Ikaria 27 by Thomas K. Shor
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«It is a desolate and windswept land of exposed granite carved by the elements into bizarre shapes and balancing boulders. The granite has a mysterious propensity to take the form of living beings.»

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. .Ikaria 29 by Thomas K. ShorIkaria 30 by Thomas K. Shor
. .Ikaria 24 by Thomas K. ShorIkaria 26 by Thomas K. Shor
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. .Ikaria 33 by Thomas K. Shor

«The trees are stunted and the bushes thorny. It can change from bright sun to near impenetrable fog at such a speed as to be entirely disorienting.»

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. .Ikaria 34 by Thomas K. ShorIkaria 35 by Thomas K. Shor

«The atmosphere is often reminiscent of the stories of Edgar Allen Poe, thick with the eerie awe of the uncanny. The beauty of the place is raw and the solitude profound. This series of photographs, taken on the mountain’s many moods, reflects both the landscape and what it did to me.»

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. . .. ..Ikaria 36 by Thomas K. ShorGallery Index: Landscapes from Ikaria, Greece — Photos by Thomas K. Shor
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...Blogged with permission of the author © 2015 Thomas K. Shor. All rights reserved...
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Wednesday, December 24, 2015
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food, pebbles and headstands


Delicious simple food cooked by a Greek Mum all home made the cheese , bread , herb pie and very very tasty peas and broad beans cooked in a fabulous way slowly with fennel and extra virgin olive oil. I'm even loving the table cloth. It's all good learning lots and being well looked after. The pebbles found at Therma beach here in Ikaria, are a stone collectors dream! The small bay collects and holds these wonderful little gems, so that they can be found when beach combing.

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Dear readers,
it was my name day and I was planning a relaxed, unambitious post about the wonderful things an English couple who live in Ikaria do with pebbles from the beach, when all of a sudden the famous Jamie Oliver, after his visit to the Chiapas last month, landed on the island to look into our cooking and shoot scenes for his next show!!! I am still and always a bad cook (my only improvement has been towards safety but unfortunately not towards taste) so don’t be afraid, I am not going to go crazy about recipes. I do think, however, that the island has a wealth of natural, healthy foods and natural and healthy ways of cooking. But I am not going to go crazy about that either. This was planned to be a relaxed, unambitious post, and a relaxed, unambitious post it is going to be. I’ll just push Nik and Stef’s stones a bit to the side and make room for a few pictures of Ikarian food from Jamie Oliver’s instagram, plus a few shots with heavier stuff taken in Ikarian restaurants by adamansel52, a ‘food tourist’ who toured the island last month. Move your mouse over the photos to read the descriptions. Scroll down to find a surprise. Nothing to do with food! It’s just another Ikarian summer drawing near!!!

🙄 ^^’

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Learning how to make Trahana from this loverly lady Maria. It's a very historical healthy whole grain cracked wheat cooked with goats milk soured and dried in the sun it's something very special and central to there diet. Delicious! A massive thank you to all the wonderful people of Ikaria that I met and worked with. this island has really touched my heart it's so natural and such a special place I can't wait to go back. The colours and textures are something to behold, and the variety of stones found I have not seen anywhere else. Quartz, banded agates, granite, jasper, and many more are found here.

A beautifully simple Greek salad the classic way with juicy tomatoes, olives and crumbly feta! Proper bold flavours and super fresh ingredients. The stones come from the sea of course, and also they get washed down from the mountain range on the island, if you go and look at the cliff faces near the beach you can see these very stones jutting out from the mud and rock; fascinating!

Cooking delicious wild herbs greens and pumpkin to be rolled in filo. Yum! Since I started beachcombing for colourful pebbles, sea glass, terracotta pottery and other surf tumbled delights, I learnt a few techniques that might help a beginner to this wonderful past time; and thought I would share them with you.

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Ikaria 288 At Therma Nik and Stef from England have a business beach combing for anything that can be used to make jewellery, selling it online then shipping it all over the world.

Ikaria 200 Here I will be talking about all the wonderful stones, minerals, sea glass and other oddities that I find where I live on the Greek island of Ikaria.

Ikaria 175 Beach combing here is unlike anywhere else in the world, and is a stone collectors paradise! There are many beaches here full to the brim with all different types, colours, and textures of stones; the only limit is how many you can carry!

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Taverna in Therma. The fish in sauce with salad and with bread was 8 Euros. I could have eaten spaghetti Bolognese for 5 Euros! The half litre of wine was 3 Euros. But at payment time she only wanted 10 Euros. All fresh, all local produce. With a fantastic sea view. I found these beautiful mustard colour beach pebbles whilst out beach combing on the north coast of Ikaria yesterday. But what type of rock are they...any ideas??

Ikaria 229 A lovely selection of substantial sized beach stones I found whilst out beach combing on the north coast of Ikaria a couple of days ago. The colours are amazing.

Ikaria produce on my kitchen floor. Wine, honey, olive oil, mountain tea, herbs, soaps, cosmetics. About half of it unlabeled, given to me as presents. A mix of wonderful beach finds from Therma beach in Ikaria, sea glass, pebble candy; and a sea shell! If you look along the tidelines, this is what you can find.

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Αρέθουσα #here #forever #ikariamylove #daysinikaria #gipsylife by Sofia Pavlides (@so_soso7) on instagram Seychelles Ikarias. I believe in the good things coming ☀ #daydreaming #behappy #headstand #daysinikaria by Sofia Pavlides (@so_soso7) on instagram

Seychelles Ikarias ☀ #happy #grateful #daysinikaria by Sofia Pavlides (@so_soso7) on instagram Κυπαρίσσι #headstand #islandlife #daysinikaria by Sofia Pavlides (@so_soso7) on instagram

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Sofia’s headstands in her: «Days in Ikaria» on instagram ^^’ ^^’ ^^’
Nik and Stef’s etsy shop: etsy.com/shop/thermalstonedesign ⭐ ⭐ ⭐

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KANGA! ツ ツ ツ ツ ツ


Kanga : a group of friends sticking together, like one body·
(ancient Ikarian word from a story in Nana’s «Ήμεσσαν τρεις ψυχεροί ελόου μας»)
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Hello readers! 😀

I haven’t blogged for long because I waited. I waited because it seems something good always comes up at this time of the year. In 2014 it was «The Day we took over the mountains». This year it was… KANGA! My friends Angelos, Xenia, Lefteris, Lina and Giorgos, all of them well-educated and experienced local guides, joined their forces and formed a collective. They are opening an agency of mountain tour guiding in Ikaria very soon. Hurray! 😀

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Kanga : Ikarian Tour Leaders Collective's Page on Google Plus

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Here they are! Do they look familiar to you? 🙂 When they establish the agency and set headquarters in Armenistis, the main tourist town of the island, there will be a joined e-mail address and phone number. But for the time being, as I am an enthousiastic fan of every one of them, let my blog be their promoter and contact sheet. Everything you need to know is in my comments under each photo. Feel free to add yours if you wish. Until KANGA has a proper website, I will be delighted to put you in touch with these beautiful boys and girls. ^^’
Their e-mail address is [kangaikaria@gmail.com].
Click to be directed to their page in Google Plus ^^’

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38 y.old Lina Tsingerlioti, resident of Ikaria, qualified mountain guide, specialist in environmental issues, keen hiker and mountain climber, founding member of the local Hiking and Mountain Climbing Association (OPS Ikarias), has helped a lot in the opening and marking of the island's hiking trail network. She has been guiding individuals and groups in the mountains, the nature, the villages and the towns of Ikaria since 2008. Lina has also completed various seminars and training programs on herbs, environmental education, beekeeping, rural tourism and processing of agricultural products. 55-year-old Angelos Kalokairinos has lived in Ikaria since 1992 when he moved from Athens where he was born to discover the island of his Ikarian ancestors. Since then he has been the soul of Ikaria's vast hiking project, guiding groups, publishing maps and books and taking and sharing photographs. He was the head of OPS Ikarias from 2008 to 2014. Deep knower of the history of the Aegean islands and a lover of the complicated natural and architectural environment of Ikaria, Angelos likes to share his knowledge both sitting under a tree and while walking. 40-year-old Lefteris Trikiriotis is Kanga's herborist and expert in the island's fauna and flora. Besides farming according to the principles of permaculture. Lefteris is a keen mountain climber and long-distance hiker. He has been leading individuals and groups in Ikaria, sharing his knowledge of plants and local herblore since 2006. Like the other four, 52-year-old Giorgos Vitsaras was also a founding member of the local Mountain Climbing and Hiking Association (OPS Ikarias). One of the oldest members of the Greek Green Party, Giorgos is a journalist in the national and local media, writing and speaking always with an edge on environmental issues. He started leading tourists as a hobby out of love for the environment of his island but later this turned to a profession. Besides nature, he is very interested in social and political issues. A genuine peripatetic he likes to talk and share opinions while walking through the stimulating landscapes of his home-island.

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Eleni

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 I wish them all the luck with all my heart!

     

 

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Simply UK post produced!


Click to be redirected to my friend Nana to agrimi's blog. Common standard WP reblogging wouldn't be enough for that wonderful entry, that wonderful content!


nακεd & unemployed


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Hello readers!
Not many words needed for these too few snapshots I was allowed to post wishing to celebrate Nana’s first sureal weeks of her new life in Ikaria. Don’t pay too much importance to the title of the enty. It’s only a joke. 🙂 My best friend is no ordinary girl so the whole thing was a success! ⭐ ⭐ ⭐ ⭐

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Hot Summer Day Dusk Ikaria

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nακεd & unemployed by Nana to agrimi in Flickr

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Moonlight Ravine Ikaria: A picture by Nana for her radical blog entry: Why can’t we do it in Ikaria?
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Trahilas, a secret beach in Ikaria: Picture from Nana's 1st weeks of life in Ikaria

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Whirl Pool Ikaria: Nana's picture from her revealing blog entry: Wild coves & beaches in northern Ikaria

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Visit her blog to read stories and see photos. And for more quality visit her photostream in (no instagram!) … in Flickr of course!!! ⭐ ⭐ ⭐ ⭐

code name egotoagrimi

egotoagrimi's old buddy icon in FLickr: Nana in Ikaria with Olianders

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