Ικαρία & Φούρνοι: μια εξερεύνηση


.
.

Alexias Ikarian GuidebookΓεια σας αναγνωστες 🙂


Σημερα γραφω με χαρα στα Ελληνικα γιατι το θεμα μου ειναι Ελληνικο και μαλιστα αφορα ενα καλο βιβλιο για την Ικαρια! Μπορει να πειτε πως κανονικα δεν θα ‘πρεπε να γραψω αφου
ειμαι τοσο παθιασμενη, οντας ολοσωμο κι ολοψυχο το μπλογκ μου αφιερωμενο σ’ αυτο το νησι, αρα η κριτικη μου δεν θα ειναι αντικειμενικη. Ομως εγω οταν χρειαζεται ξερω να συγκρατω το παθος μου. Εξαλλου εχω αλητεψει ταξιδεψει αρκετα και ξερω καλα οτι η Ικαρια δεν ειναι το κεντρο του κοσμου καθως επισης εχει και παρα πολλα μειονεκτηματα. Ετσι νομιζω οτι θα τα καταφερω να γραψω μια νηφαλια κριτικη. Θα βοηθουσε επισης αν σας ελεγα οτι οχι μονο δεν εχω μετοχες στον εκδοτικο οικο που βγαζει το βιβλιο αλλα ουτε καν γνωριζω τη συγγραφεα. Καποτε μονο διαβασα μερικα γραπτα και ειδα φωτογραφιες της και μου φανηκε πως ηταν καλο παιδι. Ετσι απλα.
.

Crouched photographer in EMF & land erosion.

.
Οταν λοιπον εκανε την πρωτη ερευνα για το βιβλιο, μου εγραψε και μου ζητησε φωτογραφιες για την εκδοση. Τοτε ηταν που ειχα ζησει πανω απο 1/2 χρονο στην Ικαρια και μου ειχε κανει μεγαλη εντυπωση που δεν υπηρχε σχεδον καθολου εγκυρο δημοσιευμενο υλικο για τον τοπο που ζουσα. Τοσο που γνωστοι και φιλοι, συνεργατες στη δουλεια, ξεροντας τον χαρακτηρα μου, νομιζαν οτι ειχα κατοικησει σε καποια χιππικη βραχονησιδα με σπηλιες! 😮 Ετσι της εδωσα φωτογραφιες με χαρα και ανακουφιση, νιωθοντας απο ενστικτο οτι η Αλεξια θα εγραφε απλα και τιμια, με διασταυρωμενα στοιχεια και καλη επιλογη θεματων, και ιδιως χωρις κουφιες εμπορικες καλολογιες. Πραγματι, τωρα που κρατησα στα χερια μου το αντιτυπο που μου χάρισε, βλεπω πως ειχα δικιο. Αυτος ο ταξιωτικος οδηγος ειναι τοσο αμεσος κι απλος που
εκτος απο «Εξερευνηση», θα μπορουσε να εχει τιτλο: «Ικαρια και Φουρνοι: Εξ επαφης»! ^^’
.

Proud Alexia and her Guidebook about Ikaria.

.
Το καλο πραγμα αργει να γινει. Μεχρι να εκδοθει σωστα το βιβλιο της Αλεξιας γνωρισε μεγαλες περιπετειες. Απο κοινους γνωστους εμαθα οτι αντι να της ανατεθει η αποστολη απο καποιο αφεντικο, εκεινη ηταν που πηγε και χτυπησε «μεγαλες πορτες» ζητώντας την αναθεση η οποια της δοθηκε μεν, ομως η εκδοση, αν και με τρανταχτη υπογραφη γνωστων εκδοσεων του χωρου, πηγε κακην κακως στη διανομη, δεν έφτασε στα ραφια και τελικα εξαφανιστηκε. 😮
.

On slippery grounds....

.
Ομως η Αλεξια επεμεινε. Σε συννενοηση με την Καριωτικη παρεα του ηλεκτρονικου περιοδικου ikariamag τμηματα του βιβλιου εμφανιστηκαν στο «Ο,τι χρειαζεστε για το νησι» οπου φαινεται πως ειχαν μεγαλη επισκεψιμοτητα, ελεγχθηκαν απο τους αναγνωστες και αναγνωριστηκε η εγκυροτητα τους. Ετσι ψηθηκε η ιδεα για μια νεα ενημερωμενη εκδοση η οποια βγηκε τελικα το Δεκεμβρη του 2015 απο τις Εκδοσεις «Ελευθερες Πτησεις» που συνδεονται με το περιοGood signal, thank you!δικο και άρα το θεωρω απιθανο η εκδοση να εξαφανιστει κι αυτη απο τα ραφια. 😉 🙂
.

.

.
Εκτος απο τikariamag.gr/ikariastore/product/10608α βιβλιοπωλεια, το «Ικαρια & Φουρνοι: μια εξερευνηση» θα βρειτε σιγουρα στο ηλεκτρονικο καταστημα ikariastore. Εχει 370 σελιδες και κοστιζει 15.00€. Παρακατω θα σας εξηγησω γιατι αξιζει να το αγορασετε. Πρωτα ομως ας δουμε τι γραφει στην εισαγωγη η ίδια η Αλεξια για το βιβλιο της:
.

.

«Το παραδέχομαι, δεν την είχα συμπαθήσει όταν την είχα πρωτοδεί την Ικαρία. Ούτε που την ένοιξε βέβαια αυτήν. Δεν με είχε ανάγκη βλέπεις, ούτε εμένα ούτε κανέναν. Ωστόσο δεν κατόρθωσε να με ξεφορτωθεί τόσο εύκολα. Καθώς περνούσαν τα χρόνια, κάπως τα ΄φερε η ζωή κι επέστρεψα, αυτή τη φορά κάτω από τελείως διαφορετικές συνηθήκες. Η Νίκη κι ο Βασίλης με πήγανε παντού, με φρόντισαν, μου έμαθαν ικαριώτικο, με βοήθησαν να μην αισθάνομαι ενοχές που δεν βιάζομαι, με πήγανε στη ντίσκο στις 5 το πρωί και μάντεψε: τελικά τη λάτρεψα την Ικαρία!..»

«Μετά δεν ήθελε και πολύ. Ξαναπήγα και ξαναπήγα και ξαναπήγα, γνώρισα κι άλλους φανταστικούς ανθρώπους και τελικά έγραψα ένα βιβλίο. Ο στόχος τώρα -όπως και τότε- παραμένει ο ίδιος: ν’ απολαύσετε και να αγαπήσετε αυτόν τον τόπο γι’ αυτό που είναι και όχι γιατί σας το προτείνω εγώ. Κάθε τόπος άλλωστε είναι σαν ένας ξεχωριστός άνθρωπος. Με τα χρόνια φτιάχνει την προσωπικότητά του, ζώντας τις δικές του μοναδικές εμπειρίες, κάτω από διαφορετικές επιδράσεις. Κάπως έτσι γράφεται τελικά η ιστορία του, όποια κι αν είναι αυτή…»

«Ανοίγοντας το βήμα για να φτάσεις στα πιο απομονωμένα σημεία, χάνεσαι μέσα σε ανήλιαγα αρχαία δάση, διασχίζεις ορμητικούς λουλουδιασμένους ποταμούς, βουτάς μέσα σε χρυσαφένιες παραλίες, διψάς μέσα στην πέτρα και τη σκόνη, ξαποσταίνεις σε καταπράσινα προστατευτικά δέντρα. Μέσα σ’ αυτόν τον ταξιδιωτικό οδηγό θα βρεις τον τρόπο να φτάσεις στα πιο κρυφά σημεία της Ικαρίας και των Φούρνων, θα γνωρίσεις ηλιοκαμένους ανθρώπους που κατέχουν το μυστικό της μακροζωίας και θα ανακαλύψεις γιατί ο Ίκαρος διάλεξε να πέσει ακριβώς εκεί…»

.


Κι εγω τωρα σας λεω να το παρετε γιατι:
^^’
.

.
.

tourist instructions ikaria august

  • Η Αλεξια εφαρμοζει πιστα τους βασικους κανονες του καλου ταξιδιωτικου βιβλιου. Χωρις να θεωρει τιποτα σαν δεδομενο ή αυτονοητο, γίνεται σύντροφος του ταξιδιωτη και τον καθοδηγει να κινηθει στο νησι και εφοσον θελει, να ξετρυπωσει κρυμενα περασματα σε μυστηριωδεις πραγματικοτητες που η Ικαρια διαθετει αφθονες, πιο πολλες απο καθε αλλο Ελληνικο νησί. 🙄 😉 >:D.
    .
.

Break on through to the other side ☀ yeah ! Our guide ikaria

  • Εχει ξεκαθαρισει σε ποιους απευθυνεται. Η Ικαρια της Αλεξιας δεν ειναι για ταξιδιωτες μαθημενους στα ευκολα. Ξερει που ειναι ολα τα αγκαθια, τα βραχια, οι αποτομες στροφες κι οι γκρεμοι, ενω θεματα περιβαλλοντος, τοπικης οικονομιας, τροπου ζωης και κοινωνικων συνθηκων ειναι σε πρωτο πλανο σε ολα τα κεφαλαια του βιβλιου, διχως ωστοσο περιττους εγκυκλοπαιδισμους. Σ’ αυτα τα θεματα εμεις οι γυναικες ειμαστε πιο πρακτικες απ’ τους αντρες. 😉 🙂.
    .
.

Adobe in the rocks

  • Αν και ολοφανερα δεμενη με τον τοπο, εχει το θαρρος της αποψης και της επιλογης των θεματων. Μετα τη θαυμασια εισαγωγη για τη γεωγραφια, την ιστορια, την κουλτουρα, την αρχιτεκτονικη και τις παραδοσεις, διαιρει το βιβλιο σε οκτω διαδρομές στις οποιες μας παει βημα-βημα, δινει τα highlights, καποια αφηνει απεξω, εννοειται, ευτυχως, δεν ειναι εγκυκλοπαιδεια ουτε χρυσος οδηγος! 🙄.

.

.

All Ikaria map web

  • Οι χαρτες! Οι χαρτες! Οι χαρτες! ^^’
    Οι φωτογραφιες! Οι φωτογραφιες! ^^’
    Οι πρακτικες πληροφοριες και τα μικρα, πολυ χρησιμα, τιπς 😎


.

.

Overgrazed Ikarian mountain Atheras

  • Δεν γινοταν να λειπουν οι αναφορες στις χτυπητες ιδιαιτεροτητες μας. Τα πανηγυρια ⭐ οι «γκρουβαλοι» 😎 η διαφορετικη αισθηση του χρονου 😳 το οχι/ναι καμπινγκ 🙄 η μακροζωια 😉 – για ολα αυτα (και αλλα που δεν τα ξερετε) η Αλεξια καταθετει την αποψη της θαρρετα, γλαφυρα και με χιουμορ 😀 αλλα δεν παραλειπει κιολας να καταγγειλει τα πολλα σκουπιδια, τα παρατημενα αυτοκινητα, την συχνη ελλειψη αρχιτεκτονικης καλαισθησιας και την αδιαφορια για το περιβαλλον οπως π.χ. στο θεμα της υπερβοσκησης που ερημοποιει τα βουνα του νησιου. 😦

.

.

Ikarian Ridge Walk Oct 30 22

  • Μιας και μιλησα για βουνα, σε καθε κεφαλαιο του βιβλιου γινονται πολλες αναφορες στην πεζοπορια: ειτε για το πολυ απλο, δηλαδη για να φτασει κανεις σε μια απομονωμενη παραλια [«καβατζα» 😀 ] ειτε για μεγαλυτερες διαδρομες οπως π.χ. το Φαραγγι της Χαλαρης ή τον Γυρο του Δασους του Ραντη. Ομως δεν επεκτεινεται πολυ και κανει καλα. Η πεζοπορια/ορειβασια στην Ικαρια ειναι ξεχωριστο, πολυ μεγαλο κεφαλαιο που γι’ αυτο θα αξιζε να γραφτει εξειδικευμενος ταξιδιωτικος οδηγος. 🙄

.

.

Food, pebbles and headstands: coffee!

  • Τελος, ηθελα να πω οτι δεν εχω δει καλυτερο καταλογο δωματιων, ξενοδοχειων, εστιατοριων, μπαρ κτλ. Βρισκονται μετα απο καθε κεφαλαιο στο τελος καθε διαδρομης και απορησα που τα ξερει, γιατι στην Ικαρια ουτε τα μισα κομοντιτις δεν βρισκονται στον κεντρικο δρομο αλλα ειναι κρυμμενα σε μακρινες πλαγιες και ραχουλες! Μαλιστα η Αλεξια δηλωνει οτι για αυτη τη ξεχωρη δουλεια δεν ζητησε κι ουτε πηρε δεκαρα. Φυσικα την πιστευω! Κι εσεις να ακολουθησετε τις συμβουλες της γιατι ειναι γυναικα μερακλου προφανως. ^^’

.

.

Το Πέλαγος του Βοριά: We gaze Icarian Sea

  • Προσωπικά εγω διαβασα το βιβλιο της με περιεργεια αλλα κυριως με μεγαλη ανακουφιση. Η περιεργεια μου ικανοποιηθηκε με το παραπανω γιατι εμαθα πολλα πραγματα που δεν ηξερα. Πιο πολυ ομως ενιωσα ανακουφιση γιατι εχουμε ενα καλο τουριστικο τυφλοσουρτη επιτελους! Να μη χρειαζεται καθε φορα που συνανταμε ενα ξενο να του κανουμε σεμιναριο, αλλα να του λεμε:
    -Αγορασε αυτο το βιβλιο, ειναι καλο, το διαβαζουμε κι εμεις οι Καριωτες. Διαβασε το κι ελα μετα, οποτε θες,  να τα πουμε με πιο πολλες λεπτομερειες! 😀
    .

.

.

.

me fairy muddy Αυτα απο μενα τη Λενη και γεια σας, χαρα σας. 🙂

πηγΙκαρια - Φουρνοι: μια εξερευνηση στο facebookαινετε τωρα αν θελετε να δειτε τη
σελιδα του βιβλιου της Αλεξιας στο facebook
⭐ ⭐ ⭐


.

.

Η Αλεξια και το βιβλιο της στο facebook Σημ: Η Αλεξια δεν ειναι απο την Ικαρια ή τους Φουρνους. Γεννηθηκε και μεγαλωσε στην Αθηνα, σπουδασε στο τμημα ΕΜΜΕ του Πανεπιστημιου Αθηνων και λιγο αργοτερα βρεθηκε για μεταπτυχιακα στην Αγγλια και την Ολλανδια. Εργαστηκε στο χωρο της δημοσιογραφιας, της επικοινωνιας και της εκπαιδευσης και απο το 2014 εχει μεταναστευσει στη Μεση Ανατολη. Λατρευει τα εξερευνητικα ταξιδια, ενω η συγγραφη αποτελει γι’ αυτην καταφυγιο. Το «Ικαρια & Φουρνοι: μια εξερευνηση» ειναι το πρωτο της βιβλιο και το πιο αγαπημενο της δημιουργημα στη μεχρι τωρα ζωη της. Το mail της ειναι: alexia.palesti@gmail.com

.
.

.
Ικαρια, 24 Μαρτιου 2016

.

Advertisements

Gathering samphire at the brink of the waves


 

 

Hello readers!
I am publishing here a translated version of a recent post from lifo.gr firstly because  Lefteris, the hero of the article,  is a «new Ikarian» who, the same as Xenia, happens to be a member of KANGA, the partnership of local guides which I wrote about in April, and secondly because I think that what he does, besides being a guide, is very interesting. Lefteris is a modern food gatherer, specializing in samphire. He has been gathering  this tasty and nutritious wild plant which  is very abundant at the rocky shores of Ikaria, since he moved to the island nine years ago. In the following interview given to Dionissis Anemogiannis in June, Lefteris talks about his work, about the value of «kritamo» (samphire or sea fennel in Greek) and about living -and making a living-  in Ikaria. Not only have I tasted his delicious little jars, but I also totally agree with his opinions.  I wish him the best and I hope that you too, after reading the article, will share the same feeling. ^^’

 gathering samphire in ikaria 1

There something in this view which hides in the many hillsides of Ikaria, those dressed in olive trees and those which are barren, full of rocks, something that sounds like a call repeated with the voice of the cicadas. Sometimes it is the echo of ourselves as we long for relaxation, for a humane way to live our of lives. Sometimes it’s just the rough beauty of the landscape and the unworldly silence which we forget encaged as we are in greyness and noise. To such a call Lefteris Trikiriotis responded when he took the desicion to leave Athens and move back to the island of his ancestors to seclude himself in an old stone house inside the gorge of the river Charakas in Rahes. After years of experimenting and familiarizing himself with everything that nature provides, Lefteris feels that he has succeeded in his purpose: to content himself with little and to live from the land, through gathering and through culitivating one of the less known treasures of the land of Greece: samphire.

lifo.gr: About Lefteris and his work in Ikaria    

«With nutritional and therapeutic properties acknowledged since antiquity samphire is a wholesome aliment, secret of the Mediterranean gastronomy, able to add taste to almost everything.»

Samphire («Kritamo» in Greek) is a succulent plant which grows on the coastal areas of the Mediterranean. In the Greek kitchen it is used to garnish dakos or as a base layer for cooked fish, usually processed as pickles. However, Lefteris’s wild samphire isn’t pickled. The fleshy leaves of the plant are seasoned in a mixture of wine and vinegar which keeps them fresh and highlights their intense and crisp taste which has a distinctive bitterness in the background like the taste of wild green herbs of the mountain. With nutritional and therapeutic properties acknowledged since antiquity samphire is a wholesome aliment, secret of mediterranean gastronomy which can add taste to almost everything. During a break from his work which in this time of the year keeps him busy for more than 12 hours a day, we talked with Lefteris and he shared with us his tastes, his thoughts and his goals, making come alive in frontt of us a sustainable solution to the crisis: the model of «undergrowth», which is about men and women who pursue a new relationship with themselves, with nature and with money.

gathering samphire in ikaria 2

— Lefteris, how did you decide to move to Ikaria? How difficult/easy was this decision for you?
«I grew up in a small «Ikarian colony» in the neighborhood of Perama near Piraeus but I didn’t live all my life there. I moved to the island where my family comes from when I decided to resign from a well-paid job in an industrial environment in the summer of 2005. After I spent one year in Crete working as a book peddler, I visited Ikaria on holidays as I was doing almost every summer, and a sequence of events kept me on the island till today. In the nine years that I live here I have done many jobs, as it is usual in Ikaria, among them herb gathering and outdoor guiding. It wasn’t difficult for me to go on with my life outside Athens. I followed my inner voice and allowed myself to shape the course of my life in the way I felt and not in the way imposed to me by the model of modern consumer society. As I left Athens I knew only one thing, that I didn’t want to work as an employee for any financial compensation whatsoever as long as that choice was against my conscience and did not cover the needs of my soul.»

— How did you decide to start cultivating and gathering samphire?
«For many people in our country the environment is like the black box of an airplane. When I started to explore the island as a professional guide as well as for pleasure, I came to discover a literally new world. My gradual familiarization with plants brought about the first tastings and the first attempts to process local products; one of these was samphire. I adored this plant as it is durable and thrifty and I believed that I could work with it towards practicing a successful trade in the long term. Later on, after research and trials in reproducing the plant, I made sure that it can be multiplied, so at a certain point I decided to try to cultivate it with the help of my companion and a friend.»

gathering samphire in ikaria 3

— What does someone need to cultivate samphire and how easy is it to find it in the wild?
«One needs to know the existence and the edibility of this self-sown summer herb and to afford to be as crazy as to cultivate something that noone else cultivates. In some islands of the Aegean and coastal areas of Greece and the Mediterranean it grows in large populations, while in others it is found only scarcely or not at all. I just happened to have frequent encounters with the particular plant which grows along a good part of the rocky coastline of the island.»

— Which are the difficulties that a modern food gatherer may encounter?
«The profession of the food gatherer is rare, more or less vague and undefined by the law, while its insecurity makes it difficult to provide a long term viability to anyone who is interested in this business. Also, bureaucracy does not allow the unobstructed practice of this particular activity as there is no national administrative plan for wild nature in Greece. As a result, even when someone wants to practice food gathering lawfully with responsibility and respect, he or she faces intractable deadlocks. Thereupon one needs to have imagination and decisiveness to create a living space that hasn’t been anticipated or classified by the authorities. One also needs to wrestle against several imaginable or unimaginable public services with totally rigid and outdated mindsets. Practically, the profession requires a deep love and respect for nature which offers generously to us rich sources of food inside its various ecosystems. One can find many of these ecosystems even in a small island like Ikaria. To become a food gatherer you have to explore a place for years, you have to experiment and to taste the various self-sown edible plants of the place. The wild herbs, fruit, crops, mushrooms, bulbs and even seaweed may give you new ideas about our diet and about new cultivations. Especially in Greece where we have one of the richest floras in Europe in relation to the size of our country, there are many species of plants waiting to be discovered and put to value.»

gathering samphire in ikaria 4

— What is your daily routine on the island? Can you describe an ordinary day?
«There is no ‘ordinary’ day on the island, and by this I don’t mean that there is no repetition. In Ikaria, like everywhere in the countryside, life follows a more natural course depending on the season, the agricultural activities and the whims of the weather. A winter, for example, can be rainy and windy and the result sometimes is that you have to stay indoors for days or weeks. Food gathering is not a routine job and I chose it against the advice of friends and relatives. When someone chooses this profession there is no pay safety. On the other hand, there is enough freedom so as to be able to improvise, to go on working with joy and to shape my daily schedule at will. The culture of a simple way of life and the pursuit of quality leisure time are two keystones which characterize to a great extent life on the island. I share this point of view with my companion, so for the last two years we have lived together in an old stone house inside an olive grove in the gorge of Charakas river. This particular time of the year I am working more intensively and I don’t have time to think about a lot of things. However, there are times when the machine crashes and then we escape for a while to some beautiful lonely cove or to some natural pool of one of the many rivers which carve the slopes of the mountains. After working hard I usually look forward to going back home to see the progress of my vegetables, the fruit trees in the orchard and to hug with my companion. I am looking for some rest and the company of my friends to end the day smoothly until the following morning when hard work will start again. The thought which often comes as a capping stone of all this effort to cover my financial needs is to ask for the least and content myself with little.»

.

gathering samphire in ikaria 5

— How would you characterize life on the island?
«Life in Ikaria is hard, difficult on the economic side but rich in the social side. Its rewards are scarce but they keep you alive and of course, the way someone will experience a place depends mainly on his or her personality and not on the social environment. Walking through a foggy forest of perennial oaks, hunting mushrooms in a cloudy autumn morning, is enough to bewitch you and make you risk everything to stay there forever. Every place has a lot to offer, natural landscapes, social relations, pleasures, hardships, as long as you decide to expose yourself to the place and experience its qualities.»

— What are your plans for the future?
«After nine years of hard work every summer I would like to find some time for a holiday at the end of August. I also intend to add more seedlings of samphire to the plantation that I have started. I want to build a house with natural materials to shelter my flesh and fashion the land around it to make it suitable for permaculture.»

— How do you like to eat samphire?
«Raw, the moment I gather it, with salt to add to the taste and with iodine to color my fingers. Also, fresh steaming hot together with vegetables from my garden, with natural rice or cereals, inside a simple tomato salad with a lot of olive oil and lemon, in a quick omeletith fresh eggs from the vagrant chicken of my neighbor, or in a fresh sasandwichth kathoura (fresh local white cheese from goat milk) and tomato, minced into a puree of legumes (split peas, broad beans, chickpeas, lupins, etc.»

.

.

You can find the Wild Samphire of Ikaria in selected stores around Greece. You may also purchase it Ikarian e-shopfrom ikariastore. You may contact Lefteris Trikiriotis at 6974042417 or his facebook page. The photos of the article are by Niko Dayandas from his film «Little Land» produced by ΑΝΕΜΟΝ. You can download the film from here.

.


KANGA! ツ ツ ツ ツ ツ


Kanga : a group of friends sticking together, like one body·
(ancient Ikarian word from a story in Nana’s «Ήμεσσαν τρεις ψυχεροί ελόου μας»)
.

Hello readers! 😀

I haven’t blogged for long because I waited. I waited because it seems something good always comes up at this time of the year. In 2014 it was «The Day we took over the mountains». This year it was… KANGA! My friends Angelos, Xenia, Lefteris, Lina and Giorgos, all of them well-educated and experienced local guides, joined their forces and formed a collective. They are opening an agency of mountain tour guiding in Ikaria very soon. Hurray! 😀

.

Kanga : Ikarian Tour Leaders Collective's Page on Google Plus

.

Here they are! Do they look familiar to you? 🙂 When they establish the agency and set headquarters in Armenistis, the main tourist town of the island, there will be a joined e-mail address and phone number. But for the time being, as I am an enthousiastic fan of every one of them, let my blog be their promoter and contact sheet. Everything you need to know is in my comments under each photo. Feel free to add yours if you wish. Until KANGA has a proper website, I will be delighted to put you in touch with these beautiful boys and girls. ^^’
Their e-mail address is [kangaikaria@gmail.com].
Click to be directed to their page in Google Plus ^^’

.

38 y.old Lina Tsingerlioti, resident of Ikaria, qualified mountain guide, specialist in environmental issues, keen hiker and mountain climber, founding member of the local Hiking and Mountain Climbing Association (OPS Ikarias), has helped a lot in the opening and marking of the island's hiking trail network. She has been guiding individuals and groups in the mountains, the nature, the villages and the towns of Ikaria since 2008. Lina has also completed various seminars and training programs on herbs, environmental education, beekeeping, rural tourism and processing of agricultural products. 55-year-old Angelos Kalokairinos has lived in Ikaria since 1992 when he moved from Athens where he was born to discover the island of his Ikarian ancestors. Since then he has been the soul of Ikaria's vast hiking project, guiding groups, publishing maps and books and taking and sharing photographs. He was the head of OPS Ikarias from 2008 to 2014. Deep knower of the history of the Aegean islands and a lover of the complicated natural and architectural environment of Ikaria, Angelos likes to share his knowledge both sitting under a tree and while walking. 40-year-old Lefteris Trikiriotis is Kanga's herborist and expert in the island's fauna and flora. Besides farming according to the principles of permaculture. Lefteris is a keen mountain climber and long-distance hiker. He has been leading individuals and groups in Ikaria, sharing his knowledge of plants and local herblore since 2006. Like the other four, 52-year-old Giorgos Vitsaras was also a founding member of the local Mountain Climbing and Hiking Association (OPS Ikarias). One of the oldest members of the Greek Green Party, Giorgos is a journalist in the national and local media, writing and speaking always with an edge on environmental issues. He started leading tourists as a hobby out of love for the environment of his island but later this turned to a profession. Besides nature, he is very interested in social and political issues. A genuine peripatetic he likes to talk and share opinions while walking through the stimulating landscapes of his home-island.

.

.

Eleni

.

.

 I wish them all the luck with all my heart!

     

 

.

Xenia, the ikarian mountain guide


____

______[click for Greek]

Xenia smiles summer IkariaHello my readers!

In this entry I am going to speak about a friend who lives in Ikaria and I am going to tell you about her work.

Those of you who are interested in our small island world can’t but have noticed a young woman who appears in many pictures from Ikaria on the internet, all of which taken in wild natural settings in both summer and winter. This is Xenia Apostolopoulou and it’s about time for you to know who she is and what she does in our island.

____

Back in 2008 like many young people at that time, Xenia escaped from the chaotic and depressive urban frame of Athens and she moved to Ikaria. She wanted to try to grow roots in a place that seemed unspoilt, a natural place where she could feel at home. We know it, not all of those young people were lucky. After the last tourist is gone the island folds up to itself in autumn and this can be tough for strangers. But Xenia had three big advantages. Those were her love for nature, her patience against odds and her understanding for people. So she has made it! Now she is a full resident and she is very happy about her new life. Everybody who knows her is very happy about it too! ^^’

____

Xenia and her bees in IkariaIkaria also proved good for Xenia in another way. She has found a job, two jobs to be precise, in the two fields that the island boasts of plentiness: bees and mountains. So our friend became a beekeeper and a mountain tour guide. But if almost anybody can learn and keep bees, so to speak, even on the roof of a house, to get to know the secrets of a rough mountainous island, to walk and learn all the footpaths, to catch the spirit of the land, to know the history, understand the traditions, and above everything, to be able to communicate all this to visitors so that they see and feel a portion of what she sees and feels in Ikaria, is not an easy thing that anybody can do. But Xenia has done it, she does it and she does it well. Here is how everything started.

____

The most important thing is to knock at the right door. 😉 Weeks only after her arrival Xenia joined the newly-founded Mountain Climbing and Hiking Association of Ikaria and because of her love for nature and her experience in hiking, she was elected among the members of the board. Days later their first hike was to the mountain tops on the route we call ‘ridge walk’ or ‘transikarian trail». See the relevant entry in their blog (in Greek) and look at some pictures of her out there, On these rough but spectacular landscapes Xenia proved no green horn! 🙂

ΟΠΣ Ικαρίας 001 ΟΠΣ Ικαρίας 006 ΟΠΣ Ικαρίας 007 ΟΠΣ Ικαρίας 008 ΟΠΣ Ικαρίας 015 ΟΠΣ Ικαρίας 005 ΟΠΣ Ικαρίας 017

Many group hikes followed like the Mushroom Hunt in Myrsonas river and the first OPSikarian hike on my beloved Trail of the Elves where Xenia not only hiked hard with team spirit but showed a talent in photography of nature as well. Until finally, the following spring we discovered her inclination. During the first group hike of the OPS Ikarians in the upper part of Chalares canyon Xenia jumped and swam in the icy-cold river pools like a water nymph all in smiles!

Posing at the Waterfall (2) Talking to the looker-ons Fun above Cold Getting beaten-up Hard to be a river fairy

Exploring is part of the job and Xenia, being a learner of Ikaria, was always a volunteer, like for instance in the quest for the forgotten Trail of the Lighthouse Guards at the island’s western end.

Walking in Karkinagri On a clear path Cave house 3 Is it time to go? It is time to go. We have to find a pass in these cliffs. No more land. No more walking. Entertainement on the way. Lunch in Karakas

But what am I doing? 😮 This entry is badly planned!  It will take me ages and pages to deploy Xenia’s story in the mountains of Ikaria! So let the pictures speak. I found them in this gallery at her profile in Flickr. One sees there nearly 100 photos of this amazing woman in rivers, on mountain tops, inside forests, taken while she is hiking, climbing, marking the paths (sometimes with her baby on her back!), laughing with friends, dancing in activist performances, leading groups, taking part in everything that goes on, sharing, making things better. 😀

Meanwhile, a friend ΟΠΣ Ικαρίας 053 x14 x4 x6 x8 x19 x21 x6 ΟΠΣ Ικαρίας 064 1st Trail Run Ikaria - A doctor and a volunteer x16.5 x3 x2 Sharing Radi (B XIX) Sharing Radi (B XXII) wild canyon ride 1 x35 a x35 b x35 c x35 d x37 Karavostamo - Arethousa. 2nd part of the hike (7) Karavostamo - Arethousa. 3rd part of the hike (5) Trail of the Elves (Rahes-Kampos) 13 Trail of the Elves (Rahes-Kampos) 14 Trail of the Elves (Rahes-Kampos) 19 Trail of the Elves (Rahes-Kampos) 20 Trail of the Elves (Rahes-Kampos) 24 Trail of the Elves (Rahes-Kampos) 25 wild canyon ride 18 wild canyon ride 21 wild canyon ride 23 S43_6051 S43_6079 S43_6086 S43_6087 S43_6090 S43_6110 S43_6101 S43_9814 S43_9839 S43_9840 S43_9842 S43_9895 Ryakas Ikaria Sept 2013 014 Ryakas Ikaria Sept 2013 043 Ryakas Ikaria Sept 2013 044 EGRf026 (girl of the 2nd team) EGRf035 (canyoning involves swimming) EGRf036 (the 5th large pool & the deepest) EGRf043 (attempt for a performance) Ryakas Ikaria Sept 2013 001 06 Winter Hiking circle in Messaria 21 Winter Hiking circle in Messaria Sharing Radi (B XXV) 06 The Making of TMAFD#1 - The cast posing as obedient woodchucks These Mountains Are For Dancing 02 These Mountains Are For Dancing 03 These Mountains Are For Dancing 05 These Mountains Are For Dancing 06 These Mountains Are For Dancing 08 These Mountains Are For Dancing 09 These Mountains Are For Dancing 10 These Mountains Are For Dancing 11 These Mountains Are For Dancing 12 These Mountains Are For Dancing 13 These Mountains Are For Dancing 14 These Mountains Are For Dancing 16 These Mountains Are For Dancing 17 These Mountains Are For Dancing 18 These Mountains Are For Dancing 19 These Mountains Are For Dancing 20 These Mountains Are For Dancing 21 These Mountains Are For Dancing 22 Ikarian Ridge Walk Dec 18 01 Ikarian Ridge Walk Dec 18 02 Ikarian Ridge Walk Dec 18 03 Ikarian Ridge Walk Dec 18 04 Ikarian Ridge Walk Dec 18 06 Ikarian Ridge Walk Dec 18 09 Two Ladies in Droutsoulas

As I said, today, after the first years of learning and exploring, Xenia works as a mountain guide. Some of you may have heard of her from the hikes and botanical course she does for the dancing and hiking groups of Ursula every spring and autumn. But most probably you have seen her at work in the photos of the hiking tour with the Czech photographer Zdenek Senkyrik last year. Currently, as her son Orfeas has grown up, she takes up more guided hikes as well as other activities in the nature of Ikaria in partnership with KANGA.

Ikarian hiking guides collective

Unfortunately there is no space left for me to post their schedule in this entry so you’d better contact her directly at larosadejerico573@gmail.com or through facebook and ask her to send you a copy. One thing I will say as a conclusion. At last somebody is doing in Ikaria what I have been asked to do so many times by friends and strangers since I started taking photos and writing about my island. I always felt awkard about denying for one more reason. Though it’s true that the island needs guides, I knew nobody who was reliable and professional enough to recommend. But now there is and it’s a very good one! A burden has gone off my back and I am relieved! ^^’

____

Xenia in the Trail of the ElvesXenia Apostolopoulou was born in 1975. Her father is Greek and her mother is Austrian. She spent her childhood in Austria, Germany and Greece. She was involved in homeopathy, botanical study and therapy, she worked as receptionist in hotels as well as guide in several Greek islands. She also worked for various NGOs in projects related to animal welfare and helping disabled persons. She has travelled a lot and she has lived in many places of Greece. Once in Ikaria she got various temporary jobs, until she decided to dedicate herself to apiculture and mountain guiding. Founding member and partner of KANGA, besides Greek, she speaks German, English and Spanish.

⭐ ⭐ ⭐

.


Ikaria Guidebook !!!


.
This Guidebook serves as a companion for anyone who wants to truly experience why Ikaria Island (Greece) is being praised around the world. Off the beaten path, Ikaria preserved a rich natural environment, crystal blue waters, hidden mountainous folds and a distinct local culture. Why do Ikarians tend to live so long? Come and explore why.
.

Hello readers


I am not sorry to interrupt the series of landscapes of others because this seems to be a good guidebook for Ikaria. Our friend Alexia’s work (1) is out of print and anyway it was only in Greek. On the other hand, the A.K.K. Editions hiking map is out of sale and I know from Angelos himself that it’s not likely to publish anything as good as that about Ikaria in the near future (2). During a visit at his house and having insisted that he should, he showed me a confidential copy of the recent e-book by Charlene Caprio and Lefteris Tsouris on his computer and I liked it. I didn’t have time to read it thoroughly and I couldn’t take it home with me because the copy was code-protected but I trust Angelo’s word. It’s an honest, careful and responsible piece of work based on long field research and that was also my impression after having read the one hundred PDF pages diagonally. The texts are to the point without unneeded literature and the maps are bold, nicely colored, clear and helpful. But the best thing about this Guidebook is the emphasis on hiking. I took a note of how the authors put it:

.

«We believe that the best way to understand Ikaria is by exploring the island’s footpaths called ‘monopatia‘. Spanning over 150 km in a configuration akin to a giant spider’s web over the island, Ikaria’s footpaths evolved over hundreds of years. Many of them connect remote villages with rivers, watermills, forests, mountain peaks, sea areas, more natural elements and other villages. The footpaths also reach areas inaccessible by vehicles and traverse the mountain’s inner folds. By exploring the footpaths, you will start to discover Ikaria’s unique environment and culture…»

.

As I couldn’t agree more, I also took note of the titles of the ten hiking routes recommended, mapped and described by the two authors in the last and longest part of the edition. The photos of Peter Wan who contributed in the edition are stunning and you can see some in the webpage of the e-book, however to introduce these hikes I prefered to use photos either from our blogs or the ones taken in the course of time by the members of the Mountain Climbing and Hiking Club of Ikaria. Those people are, after all, the volunteers who explore and discover, design, walk and maintain the mentionned footpaths. The authors duly acknowledge their contribution and by the way, so am I on a more personal level. If not for them and their endless discoveries, perhaps my passion for Ikaria wouldn’t be so strong. ^^’
.

.
.

Posing at the Waterfall (2)

  • Chalares River Canyon (Christos – Nas) walk.

.
.
.

.

Enchanted Watermill

  • The Spanaioi Watermill with additional walk to a Reservoirs and the Monastery of Mounte.

.
.
.

.

Boys must be brave

  • Pezi, Ryakas Waterfall and Selini pond walk.

.
.
.

.

Sharing Radi (B X)

  • Ranti Forest Walk, Herbal and Cave Walk.

.
.
.

.

Sharing Radi (B VII)

  • Koskinas Castle and Mt. Atheras Cliff Walk.

.
.
.

.

Ikarian Ridge Walk Oct 30 22

  • Mt. Atheras Ridgeline Hike (reaching Ikaria’s highest peak).

.
.
.

.

The Lighthouse and the Channel.

  • Ikaria’s Western Edge, Remote Seaside Villages and «Kavo Papas» Lighthouse Walk.

.
.
.

.

Thyme and Tower Hike

  • Ikaria’s Eastern Edge – Drakano Tower, Agios Georgios and the WWII Bunker Walk.

.
.
.

.

OFF THE RECORD #3

  • Ikaria’s Eastern Edge – Agia Kyriaki Hot Spring / Iero Beach.

.
.
.

.

The day we took over the mountains!

  • Ksylosirtis (Papas) Watermill and Lefkada Hot Spring.

.
.
.

 

Visit their webpage

⭐ ⭐ ⭐

.

.

(1) Alexia and her «Unexplored Ikaria & Fournoi»Proud Alexia and her Guidebook about Ikaria

.
.
.

.

.
Trail Network Shutdown

(2) Trail Network Shutdown

.
.
.

.

.

 

.

Λιοτρίβι μολύνει ωραίο ποτάμι (TUGTII #8)


upstream trekking (2)upstream trekking (2), originally uploaded by egotoagrimi.

Comments

view profile

angeloska says:

Πολύ ωραίο! Μου μοιάζει για Ράχες. Χάρακας?

——————————————– —————–

ikaria

This beautiful photo was seen in The Ikaria pool! Thanks for adding!
☺☺☺
Posted 16 months ago. ( permalink )

view profile

egotoagrimi says:

Δεν σου λέω!

Χάρακας


Posted 16 months ago. ( permalink )

view profile

Lambrini says:

😀  (για την απάντηση)

Πολύ όμορφο μέρος!
Posted 15 months ago. ( permalink )

view profile

egotoagrimi says:

για χάρη της Λ. που της αρέσει, θα πω ναι, είναι ο Χάρακας στις Ράχες και είναι μολυσμένος χειρότερα κι από τότε (να πάρει, δεν μπορώ να βρω το παλιό blog entry της Ελένης με τις φωτογραφίες) — γμ τα λιοτρίβια μου.
Posted 15 months ago. ( permalink )

view profile

angeloska says:

Κι εγώ δεν θυμάμαι να ήταν στο blog της Ελένης. Είχε βγάλει φωτογραφίες με τον «υπερτροφισμό» στον Χάρακα και τις είχε φορτώσει στο hikingIkaria>photos και ανοίξαμε κουβέντα. Κάποια στιγμή αργότερα πρέπει να τις διέγραψε. Πράγματι η κατάσταση είναι χειρότερη. Ξέρω γω, να κάναμε μια εκστρατεία πάλι; Όμως έχω κουραστεί μ’ αυτά.
Posted 15 months ago. ( permalink )
view profile
Α ναι θυμήθηκα. Κρίμα ένας μόνο ποταμός μολυσμένος στην Ικαρία κι είναι αυτός. Εσύ έχεις κουραστεί; Εγώ να δεις… Αλλά που θα παει. ‘Ολα θα φτιάξουν σιγά σιγά.
tag «blogged» κ «pollution» κ «river» και αρχειοθετήθηκε πάντως κι είναι οκ για «τις μελλοντικές γενιές» 😆
Posted 15 months ago. ( permalink )
view profile

Lambrini says:

Ευχαριστώ, Νανά, για την αποκάλυψη 🙂 λυπάμαι πολύ, όμως, που είναι τόσο άτυχο ένα πανέμορφο ποτάμι 😦 Εύχομαι πραγματικά να φτιάξουν όλα σιγά σιγά!
Posted 15 months ago. ( permalink )
view profile

isl_gr (away on an odyssey) says:

Karl is angry

Osmunda regalis

Read and take action.
Posted 14 months ago. ( permalink )

view profile

egotoagrimi says:

Τι άλλο να κάνουμε; Να πάω να βάλω βόμβα στο λιοτρίβι; 😮
Posted 14 months ago. ( permalink )

view profile

angeloska says:

Ξέρω ότι θα μπορούσες και μάλιστα να κάνεις να φανεί σαν ατύχημα. Ούτε να το σκεφτείς διότι τότε με την έκρηξη όλη -και όχι λίγη-λίγη- η βρωμιά θα κατέληγε στο ποτάμι.
Posted 14 months ago. ( permalink )
view profile

isl_gr (away on an odyssey) says:

Worse than the olive oil slick itself, is the thing that the oil does to the vegetation in the water.

     Charakas polluted 1
    Charakas polluted 2
   Charakas polluted 3
..

Unfortunately true: Ikaria is not Costa Rica. Not yet at least. Maybe some day…
Posted 14 months ago. ( permalink )

view profile

angeloska says:

Αηδιαστικό. Που τις βρήκες;
Γι αυτό το λόγο μου έχουν προτείνει να μην περνάω το κεντρικό μονοπάτι μου από κει.

Όμως εγώ από κει θα το περνάω μπα που να σκάσουν!
Posted 13 months ago. ( permalink )


Soul Powered Works & co (TUGTII #7)


Είναι Πάσχα και μου λείπει η Ελλάδα. Γι’ αυτό γράφω Ελληνικά σήμερα και μιλώ για τον Πράσινο Εθελοντισμό στην Ικαρία.

Να ο Άγγελος κι ο Γιώργος, οι ήρωες μια αφανούς μαγκιάς. Ντόπιοι με τη βοήθεια εθελοντών έφτιαξαν ένα χειροποίητο οικολογικό φράγμα στο φαράγγι της Χάλαρης. Το φράγμα σήμερα τρία χρόνια μετά ούτε που φαίνεται. Η όμορφη λίμνη που έχει δημιουργηθεί νομίζει κανείς πως ήταν από πάντα εκεί. Για τα τεχνικά και το χρονικό της κατασκευής η οποία τελικά πέτυχε, να διαβάσετε το blog της Νανάς. Εδώ αναπαράγω μόνο τα σχόλια που δέχτηκε αυτή η φωτογραφία όταν ανέβηκε στο Φλικρ. Είναι λίγα, νομίζω όμως πως είναι πολύ σημαντικά.

Angelos and Yorgos, originally uploaded by angeloska.

Comments

view profile

Taasos says:

καπου κάπου πρέπει να βάζουμε και κανόνες αλλιώς θα τα καταστρέψουμε όλα σιγά σιγά και δέ θα υπάρχει νερό … Όπως κάνουν στο ποτάμι Καρλοβάσου και αντί να τρέχει το νερό στους καταρράχτες το πέρνουν και ποτίζουνε τα χωράφια τσάμπα…

view profile

angeloska says:

Τι λες; Αυτά τα πράγματα συμβαίνουν και στη Σάμο; Ακόμα και στο πασίγνωστο Ποτάμι που είναι και τουριστικό αξιοθέατο; Είναι παράνομο όμως, δεν είναι; Απλά γίνεται ανεκτό. Τέλος πάντων, σε λίγο όταν η φίλη μου η Νανά ανεβάσει στο blog της όλο το χρονικό της κατασκευής του φράγματος, θα γράψω σε comment τα παραλειπόμενα αυτής της ιστορίας.

view profile

Taasos says:

Κάποια στιγμή θα βάλουμε και εμείς μυαλό αλλα τότε θα είναι αργά…
περιμένουμε με ενδιαφέρον η Νανά να ανεβάσει και τα υπόλοιπα στο blog της…

view profile

angeloska says:

Λυπάμαι που το λέω. Είναι ήδη πάρα πολύ αργά. Και ποτέ δεν θα βάλουμε μυαλό. Απλά 2-3 γέροι τρελλοί κάνουμε διάφορα πράγματα έτσι για το «γαμώ το». Βάλε και για να μη διαψεύσουμε τις ελπίδες της Νανάς και 2-3 άλλων τέτοιων χρυσών παιδιών.
view profile

isl_gr says:

Just to warn you that Nana is waiting around the corner to scold you.

view profile

angeloska says:

Just because I sounded a bit too pessimist? Was I not true? Look at what’s happening…