Gathering samphire at the brink of the waves


 

 

Hello readers!
I am publishing here a translated version of a recent post from lifo.gr firstly because  Lefteris, the hero of the article,  is a «new Ikarian» who, the same as Xenia, happens to be a member of KANGA, the partnership of local guides which I wrote about in April, and secondly because I think that what he does, besides being a guide, is very interesting. Lefteris is a modern food gatherer, specializing in samphire. He has been gathering  this tasty and nutritious wild plant which  is very abundant at the rocky shores of Ikaria, since he moved to the island nine years ago. In the following interview given to Dionissis Anemogiannis in June, Lefteris talks about his work, about the value of «kritamo» (samphire or sea fennel in Greek) and about living -and making a living-  in Ikaria. Not only have I tasted his delicious little jars, but I also totally agree with his opinions.  I wish him the best and I hope that you too, after reading the article, will share the same feeling. ^^’

 gathering samphire in ikaria 1

There something in this view which hides in the many hillsides of Ikaria, those dressed in olive trees and those which are barren, full of rocks, something that sounds like a call repeated with the voice of the cicadas. Sometimes it is the echo of ourselves as we long for relaxation, for a humane way to live our of lives. Sometimes it’s just the rough beauty of the landscape and the unworldly silence which we forget encaged as we are in greyness and noise. To such a call Lefteris Trikiriotis responded when he took the desicion to leave Athens and move back to the island of his ancestors to seclude himself in an old stone house inside the gorge of the river Charakas in Rahes. After years of experimenting and familiarizing himself with everything that nature provides, Lefteris feels that he has succeeded in his purpose: to content himself with little and to live from the land, through gathering and through culitivating one of the less known treasures of the land of Greece: samphire.

lifo.gr: About Lefteris and his work in Ikaria    

«With nutritional and therapeutic properties acknowledged since antiquity samphire is a wholesome aliment, secret of the Mediterranean gastronomy, able to add taste to almost everything.»

Samphire («Kritamo» in Greek) is a succulent plant which grows on the coastal areas of the Mediterranean. In the Greek kitchen it is used to garnish dakos or as a base layer for cooked fish, usually processed as pickles. However, Lefteris’s wild samphire isn’t pickled. The fleshy leaves of the plant are seasoned in a mixture of wine and vinegar which keeps them fresh and highlights their intense and crisp taste which has a distinctive bitterness in the background like the taste of wild green herbs of the mountain. With nutritional and therapeutic properties acknowledged since antiquity samphire is a wholesome aliment, secret of mediterranean gastronomy which can add taste to almost everything. During a break from his work which in this time of the year keeps him busy for more than 12 hours a day, we talked with Lefteris and he shared with us his tastes, his thoughts and his goals, making come alive in frontt of us a sustainable solution to the crisis: the model of «undergrowth», which is about men and women who pursue a new relationship with themselves, with nature and with money.

gathering samphire in ikaria 2

— Lefteris, how did you decide to move to Ikaria? How difficult/easy was this decision for you?
«I grew up in a small «Ikarian colony» in the neighborhood of Perama near Piraeus but I didn’t live all my life there. I moved to the island where my family comes from when I decided to resign from a well-paid job in an industrial environment in the summer of 2005. After I spent one year in Crete working as a book peddler, I visited Ikaria on holidays as I was doing almost every summer, and a sequence of events kept me on the island till today. In the nine years that I live here I have done many jobs, as it is usual in Ikaria, among them herb gathering and outdoor guiding. It wasn’t difficult for me to go on with my life outside Athens. I followed my inner voice and allowed myself to shape the course of my life in the way I felt and not in the way imposed to me by the model of modern consumer society. As I left Athens I knew only one thing, that I didn’t want to work as an employee for any financial compensation whatsoever as long as that choice was against my conscience and did not cover the needs of my soul.»

— How did you decide to start cultivating and gathering samphire?
«For many people in our country the environment is like the black box of an airplane. When I started to explore the island as a professional guide as well as for pleasure, I came to discover a literally new world. My gradual familiarization with plants brought about the first tastings and the first attempts to process local products; one of these was samphire. I adored this plant as it is durable and thrifty and I believed that I could work with it towards practicing a successful trade in the long term. Later on, after research and trials in reproducing the plant, I made sure that it can be multiplied, so at a certain point I decided to try to cultivate it with the help of my companion and a friend.»

gathering samphire in ikaria 3

— What does someone need to cultivate samphire and how easy is it to find it in the wild?
«One needs to know the existence and the edibility of this self-sown summer herb and to afford to be as crazy as to cultivate something that noone else cultivates. In some islands of the Aegean and coastal areas of Greece and the Mediterranean it grows in large populations, while in others it is found only scarcely or not at all. I just happened to have frequent encounters with the particular plant which grows along a good part of the rocky coastline of the island.»

— Which are the difficulties that a modern food gatherer may encounter?
«The profession of the food gatherer is rare, more or less vague and undefined by the law, while its insecurity makes it difficult to provide a long term viability to anyone who is interested in this business. Also, bureaucracy does not allow the unobstructed practice of this particular activity as there is no national administrative plan for wild nature in Greece. As a result, even when someone wants to practice food gathering lawfully with responsibility and respect, he or she faces intractable deadlocks. Thereupon one needs to have imagination and decisiveness to create a living space that hasn’t been anticipated or classified by the authorities. One also needs to wrestle against several imaginable or unimaginable public services with totally rigid and outdated mindsets. Practically, the profession requires a deep love and respect for nature which offers generously to us rich sources of food inside its various ecosystems. One can find many of these ecosystems even in a small island like Ikaria. To become a food gatherer you have to explore a place for years, you have to experiment and to taste the various self-sown edible plants of the place. The wild herbs, fruit, crops, mushrooms, bulbs and even seaweed may give you new ideas about our diet and about new cultivations. Especially in Greece where we have one of the richest floras in Europe in relation to the size of our country, there are many species of plants waiting to be discovered and put to value.»

gathering samphire in ikaria 4

— What is your daily routine on the island? Can you describe an ordinary day?
«There is no ‘ordinary’ day on the island, and by this I don’t mean that there is no repetition. In Ikaria, like everywhere in the countryside, life follows a more natural course depending on the season, the agricultural activities and the whims of the weather. A winter, for example, can be rainy and windy and the result sometimes is that you have to stay indoors for days or weeks. Food gathering is not a routine job and I chose it against the advice of friends and relatives. When someone chooses this profession there is no pay safety. On the other hand, there is enough freedom so as to be able to improvise, to go on working with joy and to shape my daily schedule at will. The culture of a simple way of life and the pursuit of quality leisure time are two keystones which characterize to a great extent life on the island. I share this point of view with my companion, so for the last two years we have lived together in an old stone house inside an olive grove in the gorge of Charakas river. This particular time of the year I am working more intensively and I don’t have time to think about a lot of things. However, there are times when the machine crashes and then we escape for a while to some beautiful lonely cove or to some natural pool of one of the many rivers which carve the slopes of the mountains. After working hard I usually look forward to going back home to see the progress of my vegetables, the fruit trees in the orchard and to hug with my companion. I am looking for some rest and the company of my friends to end the day smoothly until the following morning when hard work will start again. The thought which often comes as a capping stone of all this effort to cover my financial needs is to ask for the least and content myself with little.»

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gathering samphire in ikaria 5

— How would you characterize life on the island?
«Life in Ikaria is hard, difficult on the economic side but rich in the social side. Its rewards are scarce but they keep you alive and of course, the way someone will experience a place depends mainly on his or her personality and not on the social environment. Walking through a foggy forest of perennial oaks, hunting mushrooms in a cloudy autumn morning, is enough to bewitch you and make you risk everything to stay there forever. Every place has a lot to offer, natural landscapes, social relations, pleasures, hardships, as long as you decide to expose yourself to the place and experience its qualities.»

— What are your plans for the future?
«After nine years of hard work every summer I would like to find some time for a holiday at the end of August. I also intend to add more seedlings of samphire to the plantation that I have started. I want to build a house with natural materials to shelter my flesh and fashion the land around it to make it suitable for permaculture.»

— How do you like to eat samphire?
«Raw, the moment I gather it, with salt to add to the taste and with iodine to color my fingers. Also, fresh steaming hot together with vegetables from my garden, with natural rice or cereals, inside a simple tomato salad with a lot of olive oil and lemon, in a quick omeletith fresh eggs from the vagrant chicken of my neighbor, or in a fresh sasandwichth kathoura (fresh local white cheese from goat milk) and tomato, minced into a puree of legumes (split peas, broad beans, chickpeas, lupins, etc.»

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You can find the Wild Samphire of Ikaria in selected stores around Greece. You may also purchase it Ikarian e-shopfrom ikariastore. You may contact Lefteris Trikiriotis at 6974042417 or his facebook page. The photos of the article are by Niko Dayandas from his film «Little Land» produced by ΑΝΕΜΟΝ. You can download the film from here.

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The day we took over the mountains!


νῦν ἀπολύεις τὸν δοῦλήν σου, ἐν εἰρήνῃ·
ὅτι εἶδον οἱ ὀφθαλμοί μου.
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Why am I chanting the Canticle of Symeon? Why am I feeling so relieved? 😀

Because I who dropped from the sky in the beginning of winter of 2006 and discovered, among many other things, the amazing wealth of the mountainous hinterland of Ikaria and since then never stopped talking about it, insisting against the walls of indifference and ignorance, fighting against the dogma that the mountains are good only for rubbish dumps, free-grazing goats and perhaps several dozens of gigantic turbines on top of them all, I finally lived to witness the revolution. Two years ago when Angelos announced the closing of the trail network because of lack of support, I wished so hard that something happened and things took a different course. And there it was! The people of Ikaria are taking things in their hands! The news appeared in the Ikarian e-magazine ikariamag last week in an article under the title «How Ikaria… takes the mountains!». I found that was worth translating and blogging about it. Though I know it may seem to you a rather dry account of events strewn with place names that make no sense, yet to my ears it was music.

Most of the photos in this entry came to me through my spies in facebook from the groups: a) Ορειβάτες Πεζοπόροι Ικαρίας, b) Καθαρίζω την Ικαρία, and c) Αυτόνομη Συσπείρωση Πολιτών Ικαρίας. The links open to pictures in Flickr.

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How Ikaria… takes the mountains!

Eventually, as time goes by, the mountains of Ikaria cease to be considered inaccessible and they reveal their greatness more often. Thanks to the initial longtime effort of a few stubborn dreamers, more and more local people are discovering their beauty, while more experienced hikers do bolder things or create new routes. Finally, last weekend the action came to a peak. The map below shows the trails followed, cleaned or traced by four different groups of people who were active in our mountains during these two days.

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ikaria everybody hiking weekend map

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In red color we have marked the progress of the first group of local hikers who started from Agios Dimitrios in Pounta on Saturday afternoon. After they crossed Zizokampos and Erifi, they came to Agios Isidoros from where they took the trail to Karkinagri. Once at the shore, they spent the night in the cove of Kalou near Trapalou. On Sunday morning they took the old broken-down dirt road along the coast and finally reached Manganitis.

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teachers hikers Ikaria

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In pink color you can see the long route from Cape Papas to Cape Drakanon taken by a group of people from Rahes who since long are dedicating their Saturdays to hiking. Most of them aren’t young anymore, yet their physical condition is so good that they decided to perform the crossing of the entire Ikarian ridge within two days. They spent the night in Ai-Stathis and on Sunday afternoon they reached Drakanon where they put out their weariness in the shallow and warm waters of the cove of Ai Giorgis. Another pleasant surprise there.

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ridge walk Ikarians 2  ridge walk Ikarians 1

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In the same area, earlier that morning, residents of Faros village and several volunteers had taken up to clean and repair the trail that had been abandoned for years, leading to the church of Ai Giorgis and the beach further below. The operation included picking up and carrying the garbage from the coast. Meanwhile signboards are being prepared for the wider area of Faros which stays without signage for years. These signs will be painted by the students of the elementary school.

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In blue color is shown the most difficult part of an ambitious project taken up by the Mountain Climbing and Hiking Club of Ikaria. On Sunday they visited the area of Ryakas searching inside this impressive tubular canyon for a way out on a trail to Selini and Agios Theologos in Geli close to the mountain tops. They had already made their preparation, they achieved what they wanted and in a short while they will be ready to announce the crossing of Ikaria widthwise from south to north. When this is completed, hikers will be able to admire one after the other the two most beautuful canyons of the island, Chalares and Ryakas, on a single hike from Nas to Manganitis.

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OPS Ikarias explore Ryakas canyon

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In green is shown the old traditional lane from Xylosirtis to Kampa which was closed and covered with vegetation for ages. At the initiative of the municipal party «Aftonomi Syspeirossi Politon Ikarias» and the participation of several villagers the difficult job to clean this lane started on Sunday. With other similar projects running at the same time in different parts of the island, baring unforseen, the beautiful lane from Xylosirtis to Kampa will be ready within a month.

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The article ends there, but the action keeps on. It seems that there is always a new thing of this kind going on in Ikaria every weekend. If you are interested, get in touch with the right people and get involved. The best is that these actions are not sponsored by coorporates or funded by either the local or the central government. These actions happen and they will go on happening because the people want to take over their mountains! They want to work together to do something, no matter how small this may be, for the good of the island and for their own good as well. As the slogan in one of the pictures says,

«None of us can do everything, yet each of us can do a small thing. All of us put together can do many things

⭐ ⭐ ⭐

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p.s. for the record, these are some of my first hiking adventures and discoveries in Ikaria back in 2006
How I love my blog!

According to the local tales, people built houses like these in places like these to escape from pirates, slavetraders and Ottoman tax collectors. It’s probably more complicated than this, but ...  The lost village adventure

...I discovered a trail yesterday. It’s actually much more than a trail or an intervillage lane. It’s an old all-stone-paved a few km long mule track, what we’d call a highway today. It used to connect the villages...

  A path and a poll

I walk ( I hike, as they say ), I wander on foot. That’s what I do all day. My hips ache. My lungs sometimes ache too...

  I walk, I hike, I wander.

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In the Olives lies the Income


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Agios Polikarpos by cgchryssa


…said the fool of the village…

Είχε δει ένα τρελό καλοκαίρι στο λιμάνι φωτιά, τον ήλιο πάλι να πέφτει...

after the rain.

(Photo of the village and the olive tress by © cgchryssa , 1st photo of the fool by © Elena Lygou), 3rd photo of the fool by © Panos Louk

Mastro Nikos 
Was he right?
«yes» votes: 12
«no» votes: 1
«don’know»: votes: 6
«a fool is a fool»
: votes: 2
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Comments

(11 total)

 

Great entry, stupid poll. But then again who knows? Maybe the answer is not so obvious for everybody. If you had put up an entry and a poll as commonplace as «In ecotourism lies the income», you would have many comments and votes.

in the river 2

But people who are on the net know very little about olive trees, the rain and fools!

Sunday September 28, 2008 – 04:03pm (EEST)

I like to collect olives. My boyfriend and I collected a lot in Ikaria last December. Great days and great nights too by the fireplace!

Sunday September 28, 2008 – 02:24pm (EDT)

I hope you come back this year too collect olives with us again.

Sunday September 28, 2008 – 09:59pm (EEST)

In principle I am very interested the olive, although, apart from consumption, all my knowledge is very distant.

But I am interested…

carob, olive and kerkis  olivehole

 

Are they really collected in December?? That seems very late. They don’t seem like Christmas things, like Satsumas do for instance.

I planted an olive close to the wall (1m) at my shared holiday house in France.
Am I a fool? Will the house fall down?? Can you move an olive tree?

How did Thales know what he knew dendrosophically speaking? He knew that water was important? Is it all-important?

Wednesday October 1, 2008 – 11:18pm (CEST)

ok, we have a full house now!
– The olive crop in the valleys and from terraces on hills is collected December the latest. The olive crop in the plains is collected sooner.
– Water is all important. The correct balance of water, that is.
– Olive trees are easy to transplant. You dig a big hole around the roots and then bring a crane to uproot the tree. It’s a nice tree, tamed and given to the humans by Athena the goddess herself. If the owners are hard working, the tree does whatever they want it to do. Even if you are not a hard worker, it is sufficiant that you talk to the tree every now and then.

(Did you follow the tradition and planted the tree when your son was born?)

– Who voted «no»???? A hawk of the stock market?

Friday October 3, 2008 – 03:56am (PDT)

There is also the sun.

«μέσα στον ήλιο αναγαλλιάζουν οι ελιές» = in the sun the olives rejoice
(The beautiful assonance of 4 «L»s in this verse by Kavadias is lost in the translation.)

Friday October 3, 2008 – 11:06pm (EEST)

I see in wikipedia

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Olive

that there are some very long lived olives; they must be good at withstanding the hot and dry, as well as the frosty years. Also that they do best on poor rocky soils.

We planted ours as soon as we got the house. It’s not the mediterranean, but the soil is chalky. I may need to get a crane. And a beatiful tall straw hat.

Monday October 6, 2008 – 04:37pm (CEST)

After a few centuries people might call it: Simon’s Olive tree. The tree which the teller of tales planted and looked after. The tree under which he sat and told his tales. The tree that provided the oil for his salad and for the wheel of his eloquent tongue.

Monday October 6, 2008 – 12:37pm (PDT)

I voted ‘no’ not because I am a «hawk of the stock market» (:lol:), just a small business ordinary accountant. I voted no but because olive trees need A LOT OF WORK!

Tuesday October 7, 2008 – 09:19pm (EEST)

«…it is sufficiant that you talk to the tree every now and then. …»

I like that!

Wednesday May 13, 2009 – 01:26am (EEST)

That’s easy. The hard thing is to talk to the olive press factory man and stop him from polluting the rivers!!!!

Wednesday May 13, 2009 – 12:19pm (PDT)


what it takes to stay in Ikaria «off season» (intro)


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My friend 😊 Roberta , alias ‘gataki’ or ‘kalimera05’, founder of http://www.flickr.com/groups/ikaria asked me to tell her how it is possible and what it takes to spend a long «off seasons» time in Ikaria.
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I’ll do what I can in my own personal way….
My own personal way… Well, well, well… που λένε και οι Αγγλοι…
Take for instance, the http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ikaria

Another good friend from the group

self portrait #1 by cheeseontaoist Storm in Gialiskari by cheeseontaoist Agios Isidoros by cheeseontaoist

wanted to update, improve and add material and pics, so I visited it very recently. I can’t say the old entry is all wrong… Most of it is accurate and at the same time much of it (towards the end of the entry) is like a page from a travel log :

A PERSONAL 😊 OPINION !


I’ll do the same.

I’ll initiate from that sweet wiki/ikaria and write my own personal opinion based on my own personal experience on what it takes to stay in Ikaria longer than usual.

……………….

In tourist pamphlets, discussion forums on the net and in the Rough Guide, we read

«the inhabitants of Ikaria are idiosyncratic«

I can understand this word perfectly because it’s Greek («ιδιομορφος», «ιδιαζων», «ιδιοτυπος») . I also know a funny Latin equivalent : *sui generis* . A professor 😒 at university used to call 😉 me like that ! Like the  «You Are One of a Kind» by INXS? I think/hope so.

So… I’m conjugating :

I am idiosyncratic (ok this is obvious…)
You are idiosyncratic (sure you are if you found and read my blog)
He/she is idiosyncratic (no matter of, *people ARE NOT sheep*)
A sheep is idiosyncratic (just take it away from the flock…)

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Try and stay in Ikaria a length of time outside the 45 days of the «high season» (15 July – 30 August). If you enjoy it,  you are  *idiosyncratic*. If you didn’t know and Ikaria gave you the chance to discover it, you may get a tin of honey as a present from me,

😊 Eleni.
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Comments

(3 total)

1) yes the (perhaps too sweet) wiki/ikaria entry is a good start
2) I was sent your *idiosyncratic* camera and it looks repaired but not completely. Your *idiosyncratic* filters and settings are in and well locked. So I took and I’m going to post 3-4 *idiosyncratic* pictures of *idiosyncratic* subjects the same as you did. One of them very special, will be lovingly dedicated to you.

Wednesday July 19, 2006 – 11:39pm (EEST)

1) you shouldn’t have used my green+yellow filters in a warm & strong Aegean sunset. The photos look like with tomatoe & peperoni sauce on them.
2) tHAnK yOu for …. You are such a sweet ASS !!!

Thursday July 20, 2006 – 01:24pm (PDT)

«Most people who have been to Ikaria for any length of time do not want to leave, and, when they must, they dream of returning.»

<> That’s cold, hard, unbiased fact. I can’t tell you how much time I’ve spent staring at my computer as it randomly goes through pictures from Ikaria, longing to return.

😔

Saturday July 29, 2006 – 08:45pm (EDT)

Work in Ikaria for the summer 😄 Come on Elina! Let’s do it together! In the summer at least there are plenty of good jobs in Ikaria!

😂 😂 😂

Saturday October 17, 2012 – 08:45pm (EDT)