ΤΟ ΦΑΝΤΑΣΜΑ ΣΤΟΥ ΚΑΦΑΚΟΥ
Δημοσιεύθηκε: 25 Δεκεμβρίου, 2023 | Συντάκτης: angelosk | Filed under: choses vécues, flying, ikaria, stories, Uncategorized | Tags: angelos, fears, funny, ghosts, ikaria, ikarian-legends, φαντάσματα, Αιγαίο, Δεκέμβριος, Ελλάδα, Ικαρία, ιστορία, magic, mystic, stories | 6 Σχόλιαγια αλλη μια φορα στο μπλογκ μου προσκαλεσα
τον Αγγελο για να μας πει μια μαγικη ιστορια.
😊 😊 😊
ΤΟ ΦΑΝΤΑΣΜΑ ΣΤΟΥ ΚΑΦΑΚΟΥ
Όταν είδα το φάντασμα, αν ήταν Χριστούγεννα, με τόσες φωταψίες ένα γύρω, μπορεί να μην είχα τρομάξει τόσο πολύ. Όμως ήταν Ιούνιος, το σούρουπο μια λαμπρής καλοκαιριάτικης μέρας. Επίσης, αν τύχαινε να το δω σε άλλο μέρος, ίσως πάλι να μην τρόμαζα τόσο. Όμως αυτό στεκόταν ακριβώς λίγα μέτρα μπροστά από την πύλη του νεκροταφείου.
Εκείνο το απόβραδο, που λέτε, είχα κατεβεί το μονοπατάκι από το σπίτι που μέναμε τότε στις Ράχες, για να βγω στο δρομάκι που ήταν παρκαρισμένο το αυτοκίνητό μας, για να το πάρω και να πάω για κάτι δουλειές. Το δρομάκι αυτό καταλήγει στο νεκροταφείο του χωριού και βρίσκεται μέσα σε ένα ωραίο πυκνό πευκοδάσος όπου φύονται όμως και άλλα ωραία δέντρα. Εκεί κοντά λοιπόν μέναμε τότε, και εννοείται ότι ήταν αρκετοί που μας ρωτούσαν μισοαστεία μισοσοβαρά αν φοβόμαστε τα φαντάσματα.
Όμως όχι δεν τα φοβόμαστε. Διότι ολόκληρη η περιοχή του νεκροταφείου που έχει το όνομα “Δάσος Καφάκου” μου είναι πάρα πολύ οικεία από τα παιδικά μου χρόνια. Τότε τριγυρίζαμε και παίζαμε εκεί, ενώ τώρα, μέσα στο οστεοφυλάκιο, είναι αποτεθημένα τα κόκκαλα των προγόνων μου. Γιατί να φοβάμαι; Μπορεί να φοβόμουν τα φαντάσματα της Σκωτίας, αλλά σίγουρα όχι τα φαντάσματα στου Καφάκου…
Επλανώμην πλάνην οικτράν!
Και αυτό γιατί, καθώς έφτασα στο αυτοκίνητο, ρίχνοντας μηχανικά ένα βλέμμα τριγύρω μέσα στο λυκόφως του δειλινού το μάτι μου σκάλωσε σε μία πελώρια φωτεινή μορφή ύψους τριών μέτρων περίπου που στεκόταν ακίνητη ακριβώς στη μέση της απόστασης ανάμεσα στο αυτοκίνητο και την είσοδο του νεκροταφείου.
Κοκάλωσα επιτόπου και κοίταξα καλύτερα.
Μέγα λάθος!
Γιατί τη στιγμή ακριβώς που εστίασα τους οφθαλμούς μου στη φωτεινή οντότητα εκείνη άρχισε να πάλλεται, δηλαδή να αναβοσβήνει το θαμπό αλλά ισχυρό φως της με ρυθμό σταθερό όπως όταν κάποιος παίζει με ένα dimmer, ας πούμε, όμως όχι ακριβώς γιατί αυτή η αυξομείωση περισσότερο έμοιαζε με παλμό ή με αναπνοή ζωντανού πλάσματος.
“Όλα εδώ πληρώνονται”, σκέφτηκα. “Καλά να πάθω που δεν πιστεύω στα φαντάσματα.”
Ευτυχώς όμως, μάνα μου, που είχα δίπλα μου εκείνο το μεγάλο αυτοκίνητο που ήταν ψηλό και δυνατό και είχε πολλά και χοντρά σίδερα. Έσκυψα, και σκυφτός όπως ήμουν, έκανα το γύρο και κρύφτηκα πίσω του και κοίταζα. Μέγα λάθος κι αυτό!
Διότι όσο σκοτείνιαζε ο ουρανός, τόσο πιο έντονος γινόταν ο φωτεινός παλμός, έτσι ώστε στο τέλος μου φάνηκε πως η μορφή παλλόταν ολόκληρη σαν λαστιχένια μπάλα και άρχιζε να κινείται προς το μέρος μου.
Δεν άντεξα άλλο. Άνοιξα την πόρτα του οδηγού,μπήκα μέσα και έβαλα μπροστά τη μηχανή…
Όμως…
“Για στάσου”, είπα μέσα μου. “Είδα ένα φάντασμα, δεν χωράει αμφιβολία γι’ αυτό. Αλλά τι θα πω στους άλλους; Ότι είδα φάντασμα; Αφού τους έχω πει χίλιες φορές ότι δεν φοβάμαι τα φαντάσματα. Θα γελάνε σε βάρος μου. Αλλά πάλι πως μπορώ να το κρύψω τέτοιο τρομερό πράγμα; Εκτός, φυσικά, ότι θα πρέπει να μετακομίσουμε από το σπίτι. Και πως θα το δικαιολογήσουμε;”
Έχοντας λοιπόν αναμμένη τη μηχανή (καλού-κακού), κατέβηκα από το αυτοκίνητο και άρχισα να πλησιάζω βήμα προς βήμα την τρομερή φωτεινή μορφή. Είχε πια σκοτεινιάσει για τα καλά κι έτσι μπορούσα να διακρίνω ότι το φως που εξέπεμπε κατά δέσμες ήταν πρασινωπό, ενώ πλησιάζοντας κι άλλο, είδα ότι ήταν στικτό, δηλαδή ήταν σαν σύννεφο πολύ πυκνό, αποτελούμενο από μικροσκοπικά φωτάκια.
Την ίδια ώρα όμως ο παλμός έμοιαζε να επιταχύνεται και η ισχύς του φωτός να δυναμώνει. Τόσο ώστε, αν και στεκόμουν αρκετά μέτρα μακριά, να μπορώ πλέον να διακρίνω τα χέρια μου και τα πόδια μου.
“Ως εδώ”, σκέφτηκα. Η περιέργεια νίκησε τον φόβο μου και είπα, “Αν είναι να με φάει το φάντασμα, τουλάχιστον πριν φαγωθώ να έχω μάθει τι φάντασμα είναι!”
Γύρισα στο αυτοκίνητο και οπλίστηκα με το κλειδί που ξεβιδώνουμε τα μπουλόνια στις ρόδες, το οποίο τύχαινε να είναι βαρύ και μεγάλο σαν σιδηρολοστός, και προχώρησα γραμμή καταπάνω στο τέρας.
Προχώρησα. Ουδεμία αντίδρασις.
Προχώρησα κι άλλο. Πάλι ουδεμία αντίδρασις.
“Καλά, χαζό είναι”, σκέφτηκα άθελά μου.
Με το βαρύ κλειδί προτεταμένο εν είδει δόρατος πλησίασα τότε πιο κοντά και… η διαβολική μαγεία εξαφανίστηκε! Βρέθηκα τυλιγμένος μέσα σε μια κιτρινοπράσινη αχλή, παλλόμενη σε ρυθμό 2/4, προερχόμενη από μυριάδες πυγολαμπίδες, γαντζωμένες όλες μαζί στα κλαδιά και στα φύλλα ενός μετρίου ύψους άργιου (*) που τύχαινε να είναι φυτρωμένος μπροστά στην πόρτα του νεκροταφείου.
“Άι, κωλολαμπούσες!” (**), φώναξα δυνατά, “Μου κόψατε τη χολή!”, και προς απάντησή μου εκείνες αναβόσβησαν όλες μαζί όπως και πριν, αλλά με φως μια σκάλα πιο δυνατό.
Μετά από αυτόν τον φόβο, ένιωσα δέος μπροστά σε αυτό το μεγαλείο. Μου ήρθε να κλίνω το γόνυ και την κεφαλή σαν τους παλιούς ιππότες και αντί για σπαθί, να μπήξω τον σιδηρολοστό στο χώμα και να πω στη δύναμη που το δημιούργησε:
– Παραδίνομαι στη χάρη σου, όποια κι αν είσαι. Μεγάλη είσαι, και θαυμαστά τα έργα σου.
Άγγ. Κ.
(*) “κωλολαμπούσες” λένε τις πυγολαμπίδες στην Ικαρία.
sweet bravehearts ❤ quiet little landers
Δημοσιεύθηκε: 4 Απριλίου, 2021 | Συντάκτης: Eleni | Filed under: choses vécues, ikaria, photography, stories, Uncategorized | Tags: blog review, faces, Greece, ikaria, ikaria-in-winter, ikarians, island in the aegean sea, island life, Ικαρία, lifestyle, photography, portraits, stories, up-with-lonely-winter, why-ikaria | ΣχολιάστεHello my dear readers,
today’s article is at the same time a new episode of my «The Who in the Where» set of articles and a new episode of my numerous reviews on what other people have written in their blogs on subjects related to Ikaria.
This time, however, the blog where I am borrowing material from is a completely new and different thing and I can’t but be very serious about it. The reason is that Women on Ikaria in BetweenMyWorlds pays a well-deserved, respectful homage to eight inconspicuous heroines who have struggled hard to build the foundations of a good life upon the rocky shoulders of our beloved island.
It is obvious to me that Birgit, the author of these eight beautifully illustrated pages, proceeded in her work not as a superficial magazine reporter but as a real friend and respectful mediator. She observed, she listened, she inquired, she listened again and took notes and photos. She let things settle and mutual trust established. Take time, hang about, lay back and listen – that’s the key to unlock the mysteries of the Ikarian character – always cautious, reserved and often mistrusful of strangers. But either by nature or experience, Birgit grasped the spirit, and that’s the amazing thing about her. She’s proven true to the intro statement of her blog:
«I always loved to travel and to sit down with people, listening to their stories. It is in those moments that the beauty of a place and its people is revealed to me… Here, the definition of «listening» got another meaning. Even though I don‘t yet master the Greek language, the island and the Ikarians have sent me on a long and interesting journey. Whenever possible, you can now find me on this remote island, hiking, collecting stories and appreciating precious moments of intense talks and golden silence… Based on my experiences on Ikaria, I paid more attention to the stories around me. In times where our life is charactericed by restlessness, I treasure my chances to sit down with someone for a while. Talking and listening, giving full attention to each other is the most welcome present I can receive and give today.»
Hey, hold it! The topic here is not the blogger. It’s the blog posts! And here I am, presenting to my readers «Women on Ikaria», containing the portraits of eight brave ladies who have trusted our tiny red rock for a better life. I believe that their example is creating new attitudes and positive perspectives, hopefully not only for Ikaria, I also believe, but for the rest of Greece as well.
And, hey people, don’t think they are the only ones!
Believe me, I know!
Thank you Birgit Urban!
Very much looking forward for more!
⭐ ⭐ ⭐
Stamatoula Vardarou: It takes a village to raise a kid.
«Stamatoula is hurring down the street in Agios Kirikos – a few strands of her thick curls come loose from her hair bun. She is late to open her shop and she knows that her neighbours will start worrying, if she is depassing even the Ikarian definition of beeing late. And she is right. While opening the door of her little shop in the upper main road of Agios Kirikos, Kosta, the owner of the coffee shop next to her, sticks his head out of the door asking her: ‘Where have you been? What happened? You are late!’ Stamatoula is smiling…» [read more…]
. .
Mandy Dragataki – the woman who is looking after your electricity bill.
«When you leave Ikaria by plane, Mandy might be the last person from the island who is giving you a hand. You can’t miss her: she will be standing at the boarding gate, her long dark hair braided in two strong braids, and with a smile she will check your passport and boarding pass, wishing you a “good flight”. When you see her there, handling the routine work of the ground staff, you might not imagine that her Ikarian story started just four years ago. Nevertheless she has roots on Ikaria, deep roots. Her grandparents are…» [read more…]
. .
Fotini Paroikou – Living in the Ikarian rhythm.
«Fotini drives her little car quickly over the bumpy dirt road. It is a hot summer day on Ikaria. Some kilometers further down the road, you can enjoy Messakti beach packed with hundreds of people, who are making the most of a typical Greek holiday day with sunbathing, surfing and beach volleyball. But up here, in the area of Pezi, it‘s a completely different story. You don’t meet anybody. Through the dust clouds…» [read more…]
. .
Marianna Markaki: when living next to the sea is the only option.
«If you want to get to know to Marianna, you better put your swimsuit on, take your swimming goggles and head to the sea somewhere in the area between Agios Kirikos and Therma on the Southern coast of Ikaria. Watch out carefully and if you‘re lucky, you might see a tall, sportive-looking woman with a spear gun, swimming between the rocks trying to…» [read more…]
. .
Silke Wagner – When love and jam make you stay.
«“Ja, da muscht halt gucke, dass du noch eine Milch holen tust” You may turn your head in surprise, eyes wide open, perplexed to hear a broad German accent while sitting in a coffee shop in Raches on Ikaria. But when this is happening, you are most probably sitting in the coffee shop of the “Women’s cooperative” in the middle of the platia of Christos Raches…» [read more…]
. .
Miriam Maass – finally taking life into your hands.
«Boofy, the little brown mixed breed dog, is jumping impatiently between the olive nets. He is bored. For hours he already stayed there watching Miriam, his owner, combing down the olives from one tree after the other. He cannot stand it any longer. Nor can he stand the smell of the olives any longer, or does he want to explore the grove once more. He knows this olive grove by heart: It is nearly Christmas time and since the beginning of November he has not only examined every single mound of soil in this grove, but he also got stuck in an endless chain of the same routine: in the morning, Miriam, his beloved owner, drives him from Nas up to Proespera, where she‘s supposed to harvest 117 olive trees by herself…» [read more…]
. .
Elena Zepou – I hang up my ballet shoes between goats and chicken and I am fine with it.
«Elena bends her body up and down at the ballet bar. She closes her eyes and little by little she gets into the rythm of the music, she put on this morning: «Cesare Pugni – The Esmeralda Variation». This is her moment, this is her ‘time out’ before a busy day starts off. She is testing some steps and after a short time…» [read more…]
. .
Eirini Stathogianni – Τhe woman who is putting Ikaria on your skin.
«Eirini kisses her little daughter good-bye, then she starts the engine of the small white transporter. It is a cold winter afternoon in December on Ikaria, the Northern wind is blowing rain drops against the windscreen. Even though Eirini knows the road by heart, she drives slowly, concentrating on every bend in the road. Winter weather can be very treacherous on Ikaria and the…» [read more…]
. .
Update: Sunday, September 12, 2021
. .
. .
NOTES:
a) This article is actually a reblog. All texts and photos © Birgit Urban, all rights reserved. The material presented here has not been downloaded but embedded directly from the source.
b) BetweenMyWorlds does not accept comments but only e-mails. Aligning to the blogger’s preference I won’t accept comments here either. However, if you are on facebook, I think you may be able to add a comment by visiting the links pinned under some of the paragraphs of this article.
c) I take full responsibility for the title of my article. The second part of it is a loan after one of my most cherished old articles:
«φree αssoσiation».
Thanks for reading!
⭐ ⭐ ⭐
. .
Sunday, April 4, 2021
. .
WOW [🤩] for Hiking Ikaria on Instagram!
Δημοσιεύθηκε: 3 Φεβρουαρίου, 2021 | Συντάκτης: Eleni | Filed under: choses vécues, exploring, hiking, ikaria, photography, pleasure | Tags: blog review, environment, Greece, hiking, hiking trails, ikaria, instagram, Αθέρας, Ικαρία, Ορειβατικός Πεζοπορικός Σύλλογος Ικαρίας, Χάλαρη, landscape, OPS Ikarias, photography, Save Atheras, self-guided hiking, stories, why-ikaria | 16 ΣχόλιαHello readers,
like in my previous article, in this one too I am presenting again a set of posts from the OPS Ikarias facebook page. They refer to three consecutive entries in their home blog all with the same subject:
Hiking Ikaria Photos on Instagram.
Hey, readers, that’s amazing! 🤩
At last the true nature of our island has been discovered, appreciated, and most of all, enjoyed! This is so hopeful, so happy, so positive! When I saw the first of these articles two months ago I was almost in tears. Think that I was treated almost like a sick person when I spent months hiking on the island in 2005.
Υes, I know. Instagram is all about self-promotion – look at me doing this, look at me posing there – but what do you want, that’s only human. As long as there is balance between the self and the setting (and not too many filters), instagram may offer good evidence of the instagramer’s experience. I was so happy to see this – I mean, the nattural experience – in all the 150 frames displayed in the three articles below. And some of them are amazing photos too! I wish I could see a few in a site that would do more justice to them, let’s say a photo community like Flickr.
Anyway, enough with my thoughts. See for yourselves now. Each article contains (embeds) 50 images. They are the following:
«Τα βουνά της Ικαρίας στο Ίνσταγκραμ – 1ο μέρος»
(The Mountains of Ikaria on Instagram – 1st part)
«Τα βουνά της Ικαρίας στο Ίνσταγκραμ – 2ο μέρος»
(The Mountains of Ikaria on Instagram – 2nd part)
«Τα βουνά της Ικαρίας στο Ίνσταγκραμ – 3ο μέρος»
(The Mountains of Ikaria on Instagram – 3d part)
Closing this happy post, I would like to ask my faithful followers and beloved commentators to scroll down these long pages and choose a picture, copy the link and add it here as a comment. Because I think we are facing something new here. If we count in the beautiful captions and inspired descriptions found among several of these rectangulars, I think that besides and after the popular and inevitably trivial #ikariagram hashtag, there is enough quality material on instagram by now to initiate the hashtag: #hikingikariagram!!!!! 😚 😋
Ενα βιβλιο και αλλα δυο
Δημοσιεύθηκε: 31 Ιουλίου, 2020 | Συντάκτης: Eleni | Filed under: choses vécues, hiking, ikaria, photography, pleasure, stories, travel, Uncategorized | Tags: adventure, Aegean Sea, balancing rocks, book review, drama, good-book, Greece, Αύγουστος, Δεκέμβριος, Ικαρία, Ιούλιος, Κάβο Πάπας, Μακριδάκης, Μαλαφέκας, Μεσακτή, Πέζι, Πεσλής, my-lighthouse, novels, photography, rocks, stories, why-ikaria | 12 ΣχόλιαΤον φετινο Αυγουστο που δεν εχει πανηγυρια και ξενυχτια, εκτος απο μπανια σε μακρινες παραλιες και πεζοποριες στα βουνα, σας προτεινω να διαβασετε ενα βιβλιο και αλλα δυο.
Το πρωτο ειναι για ενα φαρο και θα σας το παρουσιασει η Νανα. Το δευτερο ειναι για τους βραχους του βουνου και θα σας το παρουσιασει ο Αγγελος. Το τριτο, τελος, ειναι για μια παραλια. Αυτο θα σας το παρουσιασω εγω.
Πιστευουμε κι οι τρεις οτι αυτα τα βιβλια, για διαφορετικους λογους το καθενα, ειναι πολυ αξιολογα, και θεωρουμε και οι τρεις οτι ειναι τιμη για το νησι μας που σταθηκε η βαση, η εμπνευση κι η αφορμη για να γραφτουν.
Ενάμιση Δευτερόλεπτο Φως
«…ότι ήταν ο Λάμπης μπρος και έκανε την ατμομηχανή, και ότι κοπάναγε με τις παλάμες του ανοιχτές τα τζαμωτά του φάρου να τα σπάσει, ότι κρεμιόταν από τα μπερντεδάκια κάθε νύχτα και τα έσκιζε έτσι καθώς χτυπιόταν, στη μέση ο Τσοχοσπύρος έκανε το βαγόνι και τον έπιανε από τον λαιμό τον μπροστινό για να τον πνίξει, τον έσπρωχνε με λύσσα, τον βλαστημούσε κιόλας συνεχώς, τον κοπανούσε όπου έβρισκε, και από πίσω ο εαυτός του ο γίγαντας, ο Κρεμανταλάς έδινε τον ρυθμό, έτσι έλεγε ο Βασίλης, και ότι πασαλείβονταν με γράσα και οι τρεις τους από το συρματόσχοινο του εκκρεμούς που κούρδιζε το οπτικό αλλά και με πετρέλαια από της αντλίας την τρόμπα, και λέρωναν ολόκληρο τον φάρο κάθε νύχτα και φώναζαν όλοι μαζί από την άκρη εκεί του κάβου και από την κορυφή του φαρικού φαλλού που αναβόσβηνε ξαναμμένος και σφύριζε το τρένο του και χαιρετούσε με αναλαμπές, κραυγές και ιαχές και δάκρυα και στεναγμούς και βόγκους τα βαπόρια τα περαστικά και τα ανυποψίαστα, που οι ναυτικοί τους όμως έβλεπαν στο φως του μονάχα την ελπίδα μιας στεριάς μέσα στη μαύρη νύχτα και στη θάλασσα, τίποτα παραπάνω…»
Λοιπόν, μη σας κουράζω, βρήκα πως το «Ενάμιση Δευτερόλεπτο Φως» είναι ένα πραγματικά πολύ ξεχωριστό βιβλίο. Όπως και ο τόπος της δράσης, που είναι ξεχωριστός ― ένας φάρος ανάμεσα στη στεριά και τη θάλασσα, ανάμεσα στον ουρανό και τη γη, ανάμεσα στη νύχτα και τη μέρα ― όλα στο βιβλίο αυτό είναι ακραία κι οριακά, γεμάτα ένταση και παλμό.
Τελικά μάλλον δεν μίλησα τυχαία για τρικυμία και ναυαγούς. Το Ενάμιση Δευτερόλεπτο Φως είναι ― αλληγορικά ― η ιστορία ενός παραλίγο ναυαγίου. Στην πιο κρίσιμη στιγμή, όταν η μοίρα πάει να καταπιεί σύψυχο και αύτανδρο τον ταξιδιώτη, αυτός σώζεται στο τσακ χάρη στην αναλαμπή του φάρου ― 18″ σκοτάδι, 1 ½″ φως. Και τι φως! Μια αστραπή έξι χιλιάδων βατ! Επιφάνια!
Μπράβο, κύριε Μακριδάκη. Το Ενάμιση Δευτερόλεπτο Φως είναι ένα μικρό αριστούργημα!
Και ευχαριστούμε και για την Κοκώνα 💗
Sculpture Garden of the Gods
«Ψηλά στις κορυφογραμμές του Αθέρα, πάνω από το οροπέδιο «Πέζι» της Ικαρίας, απλώνονται μεγάλες ανοικτές εκτάσεις, όπου ξεδιπλώνεται όχι μόνο ο χώρος αλλά και ο ίδιος ο χρόνος. Σε μια συνέχεια από την προϊστορική εποχή έως το σήμερα, οι πέτρες εδώ λένε ιστορίες πολλών χιλιάδων ετών. Λες κι είναι τα κόκαλα της γης, οι βράχοι ξεγυμνώνονται και μένουν έκθετοι σε ένα τοπίο που διαβρώνεται. Ανοίγουν νέες ρωγμές, στρογγυλεύουν με τον καιρό και ισορροπούν ο ένας πάνω στον άλλον, ώσπου να υποκύψουν σε κάποιο ράγισμα.
Τόσο στο σύνολό του, όσο και στα επιμέρους στοιχεία του, αυτό το τοπίο αφήνει τον άνθρωπο γεμάτο ερωτήματα. Εξάπτει τη φαντασία, ενώ ταυτόχρονα ζητάει και την εξήγησή του.»
Αυτά περίπου γράφει ο Αμερικανός συγγραφέας και φωτογράφος Thomas K. Shor στην εισαγωγή του βιβλίου «Sculpture Garden of the Gods» που δημοσίευσε λίγο μετά την πρώτη επίσκεψή του στην Ικαρία το 2014. Η έκδοση ήταν στα Αγγλικά και μόλις εμφανίστηκε με κάλεσε η Ελένη και έγραψα γι’ αυτήν τότε στο μπλογκ της. Εκείνη μάλιστα, με έναυσμα το βιβλίο του Thomas, ανέβηκε στο Πέζι την επόμενη άνοιξη, ανήμερα του πανηγυριού του Άη Σιδέρου, και τράβηξε κι εκείνη μια σειρά φωτογραφιών που δείχνουν το τοπίο περιγραφικά, όσον αφορά τουλάχιστον την άποψη του χώρου.
Όμως το «Sculpture Garden of the Gods» είναι κάτι πολύ διαφορετικό. Οι πάνω από 100 μεγάλες ασπρόμαυρες φωτογραφίες που περιέχει δεν τραβήχτηκαν την άνοιξη, αλλά τον χειμώνα, τον Δεκέμβρη, αν θυμάμαι καλά, ακριβώς την εποχή του χρόνου που αυτό το απίστευτο τοπίο, κάτω από την επίδραση των στοιχείων της φύσης και των ― συχνά ακραίων ― καιρικών φαινομένων, διαμορφώνεται, «κινείται» και μεταβάλλεται διαρκώς.
Το πιο σπουδαίο όμως στο βιβλίο του Shor είναι ότι, αν και φωτογραφικού περιεχομένου, δεν ξεκινά από την φωτογραφία αλλά από τη νόηση ― τη φαντασία και τη λογική. Μέσα από τις σελίδες του ταξιδεύουμε κυρίως στον χρόνο ― τόσο τον αχανή, αιώνιο γεωλογικό χρόνο, όσο και τον σύντομο, τον πεπερασμένο ανθρώπινο χρόνο.
Διότι τα τοπία του Shor είναι ζωντανά. Όλα τα θέματα που φωτογραφίζει, όλα τα θέματα που περιγράφει, μοιάζουν σαν έμψυχα. Ο συγγραφέας/φωτογράφος κατάφερε να δείξει ότι κινούνται. Κατάφερε να τα κάνει να μας μιλούν.
Όμως, για πόσο ακόμα;
Στον επίλογο του βιβλίου ο Thomas περιγράφει τους κινδύνους που απειλούν αυτό το πολύ ιδιαίτερο, «ρευστό» τοπίο: η ανεξέλεκτη υπερβόσκηση αποψιλώνει και ερημοποιεί τα βουνά προκαλώντας σοβαρές διαβρώσεις και καταρρεύσεις, ενώ η σχεδιαζόμενη εγκατάσταση πολλών θηριώδους μεγέθους ανεμογεννητριών κατά μήκος της κορυφογραμμής είναι βέβαιο ότι θα ισοπεδώσει τις βουνοκορφές και θα αλλοιώσει ανεπανόρθωτα το τοπίο του Αθέρα.
Γι’ αυτό το λόγο, ως επιμύθιο, ο συγγραφέας αφιερώνει το έργο του σε όσους αγωνίζονται να αναδείξουν την αισθητική και περιβαλλοντική αξία του βουνού της Ικαρίας και αναλαμβάνουν δράσεις για να το προστατεύσουν από κάθε κίνδυνο.
Προς το παρόν το βιβλίο κυκλοφορεί μόνο στα Αγγλικά, φαίνεται όμως πως θα υπάρξει και ελληνική έκδοση!
Προσωπικά τουλάχιστον, την περιμένω
με ανυπομονησία!
ΜΕΣΑΚΤΗ
«Την είδα να βγαίνει με μια κίνηση. Έτσι απλά. Να πετάγεται μέσα απ’ το κύμα και να στέκεται όρθια στην ακτή, το νερό να αποτραβιέται με δύναμη κι αυτή να παραμένει εκεί, καρφωμένη στο ίδιο σημείο με λυγισμένα γόνατα. Δεν το πίστευα. Ήταν άνθρωπος μέσα. Και ήταν γυναίκα. Έκανε πέντε βήματα προς τη στεριά σκουπίζοντας τα μάτια της, ξαναγύρισε και στάθηκε όρθια, ακίνητη, προς τη θάλασσα. Απέραντη πλάτη, ξανθιά με πολύ κοντό μαλλί, κώλος Tomb Raider… Κάτι μου ‘λεγαν όλα αυτά. Έμεινε λίγο έτσι, έκανε μεταβολή και άρχισε να περπατάει. Ίσια προς το Φλαμίνγκο. Λευκό μπικίνι, μόνο το κάτω. Πήγαινε γρήγορα, με ρυθμό, σκυφτή στην αρχή, κι ύστερα με το που σήκωσε το κεφάλι έκοψε απότομα γιατί είδε ότι δεν ήταν μόνη. Μάλλον θα είδε το Ίμπιζα, γιατί εγώ στη σκιά της καλαμωτής δεν πρέπει να φαινόμουν. Έβαλε το ένα χέρι μπροστά στο στήθος της, και συνέχισε να περπατάει. Στα είκοσι μέτρα, δεν υπήρχε πια καμία αμφιβολία. Ήταν η σέρφερ-θεά της Μεσακτής, η «Μάρα» απ’ το διήγημα.
[…]
Στάθηκε δίπλα στο δοκάρι της καλαμωτής, όρθια ανάμεσα σε μένα και τη θάλασσα, στα τρία τέσσερα μέτρα. Με κοίταξε. Δεν έβγαλε τα γυαλιά της. Ούτε κι εγώ. «Πιστεύεις στο Άπειρο;» είπε…»
Λοιπον, για οσους δεν γνωρίζουν ― αν και μετά από τοσα καλοκαιρια δοξας αμφιβαλλω να υπαρχουν τετοιοι ― η Μεσακτη ειναι μια παραλια της Ικαριας… Ουπς, τι λεω; Ειναι Η ΠΑΡΑΛΙΑ! Μια μεγάλη αμμουδια που καποιοι από μας τον Αυγουστο την εχουμε πως ειναι η Γκοα μας, η Κοπα Καμπανα μας, το Μαλιμπου μας, και ο,τι άλλο βαζει ο νους του καθενός μας.
Ομως, πισω απο αυτην την παραλια (και τα φαντασιακα της διπλοτυπα), πανω απο τον δρομο, ψηλα στους λοφους, απλωνεται η «terra incognita» ― το υπολοιπο νησι, καπου στο βαθος, μονο βουνα και δαση, αλλοι ανθρωποι, αλλη ζωη. Καμια σχεση.
Οι αντιθεσεις και η πολυχρωμια προσελκυουν και εμπνεουν τους πεζογραφους. Λιγοι ομως καταφερνουν να φτιαξουν με αυτες ενα καλο βιβλιο. Τη «Μεσακτη» του Μαλαφεκα με ηρωα τον κλασικο flâneur Μιχαλη Κροκο την διασκεδασα, μου θυμισε τα παλια, με εβαλε να σκεφτω, και ουπς! ― καπου μεσα σε ολα που αφηγειται, ειδα μια ηρεμη, εντιμη απογνωση που με συγκινησε. 💗
Δεν υπαρχει ελπιδα. Υπαρχουν ομως ιστοριες. Πολλες ιστοριες. Μια απο αυτες ημουν κι εγω ― ηταν δικη μου ιστορια. Μου εκανε καλο που την ξαναζησα.
για την αφιερωση! 😘
Χεχεχε! 😄 και χιχιχι! 😄
Σχετικο στο μπλογκ μου, το «Paper island»:
Μερικες σκεψεις για τα βιβλια και τα νησια
Ικαρια, 31 Ιουλιου 2020
UPDATE Sept 7, 2022 ⭐ ⭐ ⭐
ΑΛΛΟ ΕΝΑ ΥΠΕΡΟΧΟ ΒΙΒΛΙΟ!
Έγραψα γι’ αυτό στα goodreads:
Κάποια μέρα όλοι καταλήγουν στην Ικαρία by Βασίλης Δ. Πεσλής
My rating: 5 of 5 stars
Το απόλαυσα! Ωραία δουλειά!
Επίσης, έδωσα μεγάλη βάση στην αγάπη του συγγραφέα για τα ζώα.
Νανά, Ικαρία 🙂
Όταν βρω καιρό, θα γράψω δυο λόγια γι’ αυτό το βιβλίο στο ιστολόγιο μου:
https://egotoagrimi.wordpress.com
Keep it till next summer 😎
Δημοσιεύθηκε: 7 Σεπτεμβρίου, 2018 | Συντάκτης: Eleni | Filed under: choses vécues, exploring, festivals, hiking, holidays, ikaria, music, photography, pleasure, stories, travel, Uncategorized | Tags: adventures, aegean, August, blog review, boys, camping-in-ikaria, free culture, freedom, fun, girls, Greeks, greeks-in-crisis, hiking trails, ikaria, ikarians, instagram, ικαρία, μονοπάτια, love, millennials, portraits, rocks, seasonal hippies, stories, summer, summer 2018, swimming, travel, why-ikaria, wild camping, wild swimming, wildshots, young | 2 Σχόλια……
Corpus Arcanarum Ikariae in Augustum
……
«Παμε γερα με τσαμπουκα.»
(Greek slogan)
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☀☀☀☀☀☀☀☀☀☀☀☀☀☀☀☀☀
Hello readers!
This is not a reblog. This is a roundup!
😊 😊 😊
Ikaria, August 2018
«Αγαπώ τον Αύγουστο στην Ικαρία. Βλέπεις κι ακούς πολλά. Δείχνεις κι εσύ και λες πολλά. Ο Αύγουστος είναι μια γιορτή. Για κριτική κι ανάλυση θα έχουμε μπόλικο χρόνο το χειμώνα.»
[«Νύχτα παπί τρικάβαλο»]
[Σχόλια στο «Νύχτα παπί τρικάβαλο»]
Ikaria, August 2017
[«Be hip and with the youths»]
[Σχόλια στο «Be hip and with the youths»]
Ikaria, August 2017
«Οι νέοι της Ελλάδας αρνούνται να αφήσουν τη χειρότερη οικονομική κρίση στην ιστορία της Ευρωπαϊκής Ένωσης να τους στερήσει το δικαίωμα στην απόλαυση του γενέθλιου τόπου τους.»
[«Απόδραση απ’ την Κρίση»]
[Σχόλια στο «Απόδραση απ’ την Κρίση»]
Ikaria, August 2017
[«Ήταν ένας Αύγουστος με πολλά λινκς»]
[Σχόλια στο «Ήταν ένας Αύγουστος με πολλά λινκς»]
Ikaria, August 2017
«Now, don’t think I have betrayed Flickr but as it goes, from the side of Ikaria at least, sometimes the pictures fail in edge, spontaneity and personal touch. for the small picture, the snapshot, the ephemeral, subjective thing, Instagram, coming with all its smart filters and tricks, seems to win the game.»
[«Adventures, Fun & Attitude: Selected grams from Ikaria ♥ Part 1»]
[Comments on «Adventures, Fun & Attitude: Selected grams from Ikaria ♥ Part 1»]
Ikaria, August 2017
«It’s the story of the young travellers to Ikaria in the summer. It’s all loaded on Instagram. Enjoy and respect. This is the new DIY generation who are not looking for ready-made things but for the true experience, for whatever that takes.»
[«Adventures, Fun & Attitude: Selected grams from Ikaria ♥ Part 2»]
[Comments on «Adventures, Fun & Attitude: Selected grams from Ikaria ♥ Part 2»]
Ikaria, August 2017
«Was it I the other woman alone? The woman alone who was looked at by another woman alone in that cut-off place and moment? Yes, perhaps it was I. I turned fifty last year. And as often as always I like to swim in remote, quiet places at dusk.»
[«Adventures, Fun & Attitude: Selected grams from Ikaria ♥ Part 3 ➕»]
[Comments on «Adventures, Fun & Attitude: Selected grams from Ikaria ♥ Part 3 ➕»]
…………………….
So here is the latest bunch.⭐ ⭐ ⭐ ⭐
Note: All of the photos displayed below were chosen after long search according to complicated criteria. None of them have been downloaded but embedded into this post directly from the source. If you click on the thumbnails, you will be directed to the originals on Instagram.
All rights reserved by the respective owners © 2017-2018
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Διαβάστε τη συνέχεια του άρθρου »
Adventures, Fun & Attitude: Selected grams from Ikaria ♥ Part 3 ➕
Δημοσιεύθηκε: 8 Απριλίου, 2018 | Συντάκτης: Eleni | Filed under: choses vécues, exploring, festivals, hiking, holidays, ikaria, photography, pleasure, stories, travel, Uncategorized | Tags: adventure, adventures, aegean, August, beach, blog review, camping, dreams, Greece, hiking, hiking trails, ikaria, ikariagram, ikarians, instagram, ικαρία, μονοπάτια, literature, my life, photostory, portraits, rahes, stories, summer 2017, Trapalou, travel | 8 Σχόλια……
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Hello readers!
This is obviously the third part of the second part and the first part. But in this post there is a big [[➕]]! Because as I was browsing through Instagram to choose some last pictures from Ikaria to show you, I looked again at a picture I had added in PART 1 and I realised that it wasn’t just one random holiday snaphot. More pictures followed and all of them belonged to a story – a story written in a blog!
But first things first. Take a look at my last 50 selected grams from Ikaria and then scroll down to read my English translation of Virginia’s «Sobre una mujer sola en una playa». As you will see in the end, I have reasons to cherish very strong personal feelings about it. But far besides that, what matters more is that I find her adventure and more importantly the way she describes her adventure the best to this moment, most edgy and wonderfully dramatic example of the attitude I’ve spoken about in Part 2:
«Enjoy and respect. This is the new DIY generation who are not looking for ready-made things but for the true experience, for whatever that takes.»
……………………..⭐ ⭐ ⭐ ⭐
Note: I have displayed the pictures randomly and democratically all same size. None of them (including the ones inside the Virginia’s story) have been downloaded but embedded into this post directly from the source. All rights reserved by the respective owners © 2012-2017
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.
…
«Sobre una mujer sola en una playa»
(About a woman alone on a beach)
«Later that evening, we were sitting there and I could hear a church bell from the Orthodox church around the corner. My ear followed the sound there and back, there and back, my eye trailing the distance to the church in the dark. I asked my aunt if she was awake. She stirred in her chair and said yes, she was. I said, how did you make it so long. She asked what I meant. I said, there are so many years. How can you be alone so long. She said she didn’t know.»
[Jesse Ball, How to Make a Fire and Why]
«Last year with Adrián we decided to take a trip. He asked me where I wanted to go, and I told him that for some time I had in my thoughts the island of Ikaría. He wondered why. I do not know, I told him. He asked me again: what is there? Nothing, I said. It is an island where there is nothing. He told me, that’s an answer.»
«He asked me again: what is there? Nothing, I said. It is an island where there is nothing. He told me, that’s an answer.»
«There was a turning point in the trip and it was the day of the monopati. By then I already had severely infected soles of the feet. I think about the precise moment, a few days before, in which the blisters that almost completely covered the metatarsals broke and I still get goosebumps. I remember it with my head but I also remember it more with my body, it was a burning like I had never felt before, I felt it break, tear. And if walking most of the day with a heavy backpack on my back, sleeping little and feeding mainly on the figs and grapes that we found on the way, it was already difficult, every step I took with the blisters open and beginning to become infected was a torture.»
«There was a turning point in the trip and it was the day of the monopati.»
«We spent the night in a forest on the outskirts of Raches and the next morning we started walking very early. In the course of the day we had to descend an altitude of nine hundred meters extended along twenty kilometers by mountain road and reach the coastal town of Karkinagri, at the south-western end of the island. We had no choice. Between Raches and Karkinagri there was absolutely nothing, no food, no water, no shelter, no firm terrain to camp, only a narrow monopati that descended sinuously and abruptly down the mountain.»
«The first challenge was to find the mentioned monopati. The map of Ikaría that we had pointed out as villages what we, upon arriving, discovered that they were only scattered houses, many of them abandoned (one night we camped inside one, it was the night that I really thought I was going to die, that until then everything had arrived, but that is another story).»
«After walking for a few hours we arrived at what we hoped would be a town, where we expected to replenish our water and ask for directions for the rest of the way, but all we found was a half-demolished farm in which a very old man milked a goat. He approached us with the wooden bucket full of warm, steaming, perfumed milk. The milk had a pregnant smell, cloying, a bit repulsive. I was dying to try it, I felt that my body was asking for it while the man told us that in his youth he had been a sailor and had been in Buenos Aires. French fries, he said in Spanish. His dogs barked at us with fury. We asked him about the monopati and he indicated where to go.»
«Later we heard voices and followed them and in the middle of the forest we found a neat land with an orchard and a house made of a container. Under a tree a group of men and women talked and worked. We asked them about the monopati and as Greeks as they were, they invited to come in, unconditional hospitality is practiced even in the depths of the forest, especially there (if a Greek refuses philoxenia to a stranger in the middle of the forest and there is no one to witness it, do the Erynias overwhelm him?). They served us a strong and delicious coffee (we had not had coffee for days, we had not done many things for days, like bathing) and they invited us with figs from their garden dried in the sun.»
«The owner of the house, about forty or forty-five years old, had grown tired of life in Athens and had exchanged it for that rectangle of land on which he lived most of the year, growing his own food and reading the classics, receiving friends during the summer. He was a serious man, serene, a man who spoke slowly, beautifully. The beautiful Greeks are truly beautiful, slender and proud, with marked features and deep wrinkles of expression. Beside him, Adrian, with his blond curls and his upturned nose and his reckless speech, looked like a teenager.»
«We continue advancing and at the highest point of the mountain, in the middle of a thorny forest, an enchanted forest, the most beautiful I saw, we found a tiny church and sitting at the door a shaggy man, the caretaker. Hour after hour and day after day he would sit there, alone, in silence. We asked him about the monopati. He showed us the way. He himself is walking up and down on it every several weeks to get provisions from the town. We were reassured by this concrete reference that the monopati existed and it was not far away.»
«Finally we found it and the descent was slow and difficult. My feet were in deplorable condition, I felt the stockings alternately wet and stiff, as blood and pus sprouted and dried. We walked slower and slower, and Adrian became impatient. He advanced alone and he waited for me later, feeling solicitous and confused. We got lost several times. The monopati at times became so narrow that it was easy to mistake it with openings that appeared naturally among the vegetation. Several times we took the wrong direction. We opened and closed gates. We climbed trees and stones. We crossed a dry river in a valley.»
«It had been a difficult day for two people who knew little of each other, who began to glimpse with a mixture of rejection and compassion into the miseries of the other and to remember their own miseries, those that one tends to forget when there is no witness around, when conveniences and routines camouflage them a bit.»
«Around four in the afternoon we arrived at the town. We hated it immediately. Ikaría does not receive too many tourists, but the few that were there were there. We ate something quickly and decided to continue on our way and spend the night in [Manganitis], a nearby town. We resumed the march in silence. It had been a difficult day for two people who knew little of each other, who began to glimpse with a mixture of rejection and compassion into the miseries of the other and to remember their own miseries, those that one tends to forget when there is no witness around, when conveniences and routines camouflage them a bit.»
«We arrived at [Manganitis] at sunset, and the place was a dream. A tiny village, quiet, no more than fifteen houses. A warm tavern in the shade of a vine. A bay of white stones, turquoise waters. A small church and a cemetery near the edge of the sea (where we would spend the night, sleeping in one of the mausoleums between candles and coffins, but that’s another story). A group of men and women swam naked. Adrian also undressed and got into the water. I sat on the still warm stones of the shore and soaked my feet. The salt water washed my blood and the pain worsened first and then it started to ease up a bit. The group of bathers left and the beach was deserted.»
«It was almost dark when a woman in her fifties appeared. Adrian had swum away, and we seemed to be alone on that silent beach at the end of the world. She took off her clothes and got into the water. She swam for a long time and then came back to the shore and wrapped herself in a towel and stayed there, looking at the water until it was completely dark. Then she got dressed, took her things and left.»
«All this preamble is to say that last night I thought about that woman. Many times, I think about that woman, and last night was one of those times. I was in bed and was cold (because the days are warm and sunny, but still cool at night) and I began to rub my arms and legs with my hands to warm me up. And I do not know why that gesture made me suddenly feel very aware that I am alone. That I brought myself to this bed in the house of strangers in a city in another hemisphere and I am responsible for giving me heat, I am both the injured foot and the salty sea that heals, the woman alone and the woman alone who looks at the woman alone.»
TEXT: ΤΡΕΙΣ ΜΗΝΕΣ: «Sobre una mujer sola en una playa»
PICTURES: Virginia Rech on Instagram
** «Monopati» («μονοπάτι» in Greek) = footpath, a more or less narrow trail usually across nature or rural land.
*** There is a slight confusion with placenames. To all evidence the final scene of the story takes place in «Trapalou» instead of «Manganitis» which is a relatively large village located much further to the east.
……
AFTERWORD:
Was it I the other woman alone? The woman alone who was looked at by another woman alone in that cut-off place and moment? Yes, perhaps it was I. I turned fifty last year. And as often as always I like to swim in remote, quiet places at dusk. Thank you Virginia. All Virginias of this world, thank you!!!
So long and take care
Eleni ❤
……
Adventures, Fun & Attitude: Selected grams from Ikaria ♥ Part 2
Δημοσιεύθηκε: 19 Νοεμβρίου, 2017 | Συντάκτης: Eleni | Filed under: choses vécues, festivals, holidays, ikaria, photography, pleasure, stories, travel, Uncategorized | Tags: adventure, aegean, August, beach, free culture, free expression, freedom camping, GenDIY, good-conspiracy, Greece, greeks-in-crisis, grouvaloi, hiking, ikaria, instagram, ικαρία, millennials, photography, portraits, seasonal hippies, stories, summer 2017, transitions, travel, vanity, why-ikaria | 13 Σχόλια……
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Hello readers!
This is the second part of… well, the first part. How these two successive posts came about is a long Greek story. It’s the story of the young travellers to Ikaria in the summer. It’s all loaded on Instagram. Enjoy and respect. This is the new DIY generation who are not looking for ready-made things but for the true experience, for whatever that takes.
I have displayed the pictures randomly and democratically all same size, but I can allow myself to say that my favorite is a portrait of a sweet young woman with a caption in Greek, which means:
«When you are hungry but still pose»
……………………..⭐ ⭐ ⭐ ⭐
Note: None of the 100 pictures seen below have been downloaded but embedded into this post directly from the source. All rights reserved by the respective owners © 2012-2017
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.
…
……
Finally, the last picture: that was taken by Georgia, a local photographer last February. In the previous post Nana said I like to connect with the past. This is only partly true. I connect with the past and the past connects with me. That girl there looks as if it was me standing on that spot when I took this historical picture long long long ago, back in November 2005!!!
So long and take care
Eleni ❤
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Adventures, Fun & Attitude: Selected grams from Ikaria ♥ Part 1
Δημοσιεύθηκε: 19 Νοεμβρίου, 2017 | Συντάκτης: Eleni | Filed under: choses vécues, exploring, festivals, holidays, ikaria, photography, pleasure, stories, travel, Uncategorized | Tags: adventure, aegean, August, beach, free culture, free expression, GenDIY, Greece, greeks-in-crisis, ikaria, instagram, ικαρία, millennials, photography, portraits, seasonal hippies, stories, transitions, travel, vanity | 14 Σχόλια……
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Hello readers!
Now, don’t think I have betrayed Flickr but as it goes, from the side of Ikaria at least, sometimes the pictures fail in edge, spontaneity and personal touch. It’s no wonder my friends lately don’t add pictures from Flickr in their comments on my posts. They seem to prefer Instagram and I think they are right. Flickr is fine for the large picture and it’s jaw-dropping what you can sometimes see in there, but for the small picture, the snapshot, the ephemeral, subjective thing, Instagram, coming with all its smart filters and tricks, seems to win the game. No wonder (again) why it’s so popular with the under 30s. And these under 30s are the ones who flock together and liven up Ikaria in the summer. Are you guessing it already? You guessed right. Forget the introduction. This article is not really about photography. It’s about these under 30s. Cheers to their generation! All the spirit I love and cherish, they got it! And certainly a lot more!
Go, go, go, young travelers to Ikaria in the age of crisis!
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Note: None of the 100 pictures seen below have been downloaded but embedded into this post directly from the source. All rights reserved by the respective owners © 2012-2017
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Wind-bound in Nicaria, circa 1740
Δημοσιεύθηκε: 29 Νοεμβρίου, 2016 | Συντάκτης: Eleni | Filed under: choses vécues, exploring, ikaria, stories, travel | Tags: Aegean Sea, anthropology, Charles Perry, environment, Greece, history, ikaria, ikarians, island in the aegean sea, island life, χαμένο-χωριό, Κάβο Πάπας, ικαρία, Kavo Papas, landscape, legends, lost-village, Mavri, my-work, pirates, script, stories, storm, tales, travel | 17 ΣχόλιαI don’t expect this long article to become too popular. It’s just that several modern-day Ikarians show a lot of interest in knowing as much as they can about the more recent history of the island and they are usually very disappointed. Compared with other islands of the Aegean Sea, there is so little to say about Ikaria! No glorious battles, no illustrious rulers, no forts and fleets, no trading towns, no towers, cathedrals and famous monasteries; only mossy stonewalls and old thrifty houses scattered in the ravines, the valleys and the forests in the hills.
Neverthelss, there were some short descriptions of the life in the island during the Obscurity («Αφάνεια») as we like to call in Ikaria the first hard centuries of the Ottoman occupation. These were written by the very few European travelers who touched at our rough, inhospitable shores, often by chance or accident. In Pr A.J. Papalas’ book «Ancient Icaria» I found a reference to one of these documents, which, although brief and trivial, capticated my imagination. It is by Charles Perry, a wealthy medical doctor from England who travelled in the Levant from 1739 to 1742. After visiting Egypt, Perry sailed from Alexandria to Athens. On his way across the Aegean he visited and described the islands of Cos and Patmos. But after that island, as he was heading for Mykonos, his ship was caught in a storm and was forced to drop anchor in Ikaria.
I liked Perry’s account. Reading his one and a half page about his accidental visit to Ikaria, I felt the genuine puzzlement of a man of the Century of Lights for the unwelcoming, extremely mountainous environment of the island and his also genuine astonishment (and contempt) for the attitude and the way of life of its inhabitants. But, most of all, I liked his account for a more personal reason: through the eyes of the good old British doctor, I saw some places of western Ikaria which I know very well, such as Karkinagri, Agios Isidoros and Langada, looking as uncanny and wild, as if we were talking about a remote, unfriendly rock in the middle of the South Pacific!
😌
«We spent three days in Patmos, not disagreeably; and the fourth in the morning we set sail for Myconos; but the wind, which was otherwise pretty favorable, grew slack, next to a calm; so that it was with much-ado, with what wind we had, and the help of our oars, that we reached the west end of Nicaria in two days. We much lamented our hard fate, that we should thus long want a wind at such a favourable (for it) crisis of the year, it being near the Autumnal Equinox.
However, that night, about an hour after sunset, even whilst we were reproaching the malice of our stars, a fine gale sprang up. We failed not to embrace it immediately, and we went driving on, Jehu-like, with our sails full of wind and our hearts full of joy: But alas! How frail and transitory are human hopes and happiness, especially upon the sea? Within an hour after, the wind turned against us, and blew a storm; so that we were forced to change our course, and to seek shelter under a rock at the west end of Nicaria, which we did not attain, however, without much difficulty and danger.»
«Here we lay wind-bound four nights, and above three days; during which irksome interval we amused ourselves in the best manner we could with fishing: But after we had spent two days without other recreation than fishing, that sport grew dull and tedious; and whilst we were looking out for some sport and divertissement, kind Providence (of its grace and favour) sent us the glad tidings that about a mile off, on the side of a high rocky mountain, there was a spring of excellent water, which was resorted to by great number of partridges. Upon this intelligence, (which we got the third day of our detention there) we immediately got ready arms and ammunition of all sorts, as well for the belly as the barrel -such as bread, butter, cheese, salt, pepper, wine, glasses, etc. We marched on directly, (flushed with the hopes of new game) with uncommon ardour, or rather avidity; and we were well recompensed our pains; for we passed that day very agreeably.
The mountain (though in general very steep) admits a sort of level in that place; and the spring of water issues out of a rock, in a very convenient and delightful spot, where nature or chance has formed a sort of grot, large enough to receive and accommodate a dozen or 15 persons. This natural grot (if we may so call it) is covered over, and secured against the weather, by a large flat stone of about 24 feet in diameter: This rests upon and is supported by other stones on all sides, except to the eastward; where, being open, it presents to view a sort of alcove. Here we passed the whole day (which but for that retreat would have been tedious) very agreeably -reclining upon the bed of our grot, with the water trilling along close by us, whilst our partisans upon the hunt for partridges, wild goats, and the like, of which they brought us in good store.»
«There are some few inhabitants on this island, but those almost naked and savage, seldom seeing or conversing with any of the human species, except those of their own isle. The second day after we put in there, we sent out some of the mariners a shooting for us, who pursuing their game to the north side of the mountain, met with some of the natives. These were so affrighted at sight of strangers, that they fled from them with precipitation; but our people calling after them, and telling them they had brought them bread and corn, they at last prevailed on them to stop, and come to a party with them. These poor wretches, being at length persuaded of our good intentions, came to see us aboard our vessel, and afterwards brought us good store of grapes and meat. We were really at a loss to guess where they found those things; for the whole island, so far as we could see of it, is the most miserable, barren rock that ever was seen.
The 4th day, towards noon, the wind changing in our favour, we set sail for Myconos, which is 40 miles distant from the westernmost point of Nicaria. This (as it is to be supposed) is a run of about 7 hours, with a good brisk gale…»
Pages 484-486 from Charles Perry’s book, «A View of the Levant», which I have arbitrarily named «Wind bound in Nicaria», can be found in Google books
Modern books about the history of Ikaria:
Comments on this article are very welcome!
Ελενη
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I’m back & sea turtles! •·.·´¯`·.·•. •·.·´¯`·.·•☀
Δημοσιεύθηκε: 22 Οκτωβρίου, 2016 | Συντάκτης: Eleni | Filed under: choses vécues, holidays, ikaria, photography, pleasure, stories, travel, Uncategorized | Tags: beach, caretta-caretta, eleni-in-ikaria, environment, funny, ikaria, ikaria-in-winter, island in the aegean sea, χελωνάκια, ικαρία, loggerhead sea turtles, my life, nature, October, photography, preservation, sea turtles, stories | 9 Σχόλια.
Two days ago and I’m back in Ikaria and I am taking part in my own cleansing ritual as always early in the morning and after that I put something on and lie on the sand and I am tired and I drowse off and although it was cold earlier, now the sun rises higher and I wake up from the heat, and I think I’m dreaming ‘cause next to my waist, and my left thigh small black creatures emerge from the sand hot babes and they look as if made of rubber and they are six or seven (maybe there were more while I was asleep) and they crawl and paddle towards the sea – because they are newly born baby sea turtles!!!
😊 😍
And I jump on my feet and one more baby crawls out of the sand from the spot where I had laid my head and I’m trying to reach my camera while I’n also trying to keep my pareo around my waist and the camera drops on the sand and I am wasting time to clean it and I think that I’m screaming -from impatience, excitement and joy…
😖 😆 😄
And I open the lid of the lens and I finally take three good shots!!!
📷 😤
Bravo, chelonakia!
Bravo, baby sea-turtles!
Thanks for the short crazy moment
I felt you were my own little brats!!!
👶
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Now in case some of you thought I am some kind of animal enchanter ☺ – according to latest records, loggerhead sea turtles are not uncommon in the eastern Aegean islands, including Ikaria, and that in spite the fact that we don’t have many appropriate sandy beaches. Several friends have seen nests and even witnessed mothers laying eggs.
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