Ikaria in August – Instructions for Use
Δημοσιεύθηκε: 17 Ιουλίου, 2015 Filed under: choses vécues, exploring, festivals, hiking, holidays, ikaria, pleasure, travel | Tags: August, camping, camping-in-ikaria, contradictions, good-conspiracy, Greece, ikaria, ikarians, Αυτόνομη Συσπείρωση Πολιτών Ικαρίας, ικαρία, my-friends, panigiri, politics, preservation, slacker politics, summer, things to know, tourist-season, young 13 Σχόλια.
The future belongs to the young. And the young -a special kind of young- have always prefered Ikaria for their holidays in July and August. Not only we respect that but it’s actually an honor. The following article which is also going to be distributed in print appeared in the website of the local municipal party ASPI in June 2015. In this manual-like style of document ASPI makes a list of the basic facts a young visitor should know about our strange island. I was very happy about this good piece of straightforwardness, friendliness and understanding. As there are a lot of foreign young people who come to the island in high summer and knowning from experience that they also need a warm welcome and a helping hand, I felt I had to translate it in English. I am letting you read my translation. No embellishments! Facts and instructions! Big times!!! ⭐ ⭐ ⭐
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😀 ❤ .
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«Welcome friends
You can see it from the ferry, Ikaria is one long and high mountain without plains and many beaches, while most of the villages are hidden in its slopes. By nature it’s not suitable for mass tourism. Its mountainous landscape does not offer the comfort and convenient pleasure seeked by the average consumer/tourist. Nonetheless, since the island was known as a tourist destination, the followning paradox occurs: Ikaria’s difference (not only in the landscape but in the way of life and the way of thinking of the inhabitants) attracts many people, mostly young, who want to see «what goes on here» – to catch a glimpse and understand a bit of this difference. But because they also want to be together with other young people who are after the same thing, they all arrive in August. As a result, during those few weeks different Ikaria becomes «alternative Ikaria» – a chaotic (alternatively massive) «anti-Mykonos».»
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«We would like holidays in Ikaria to be a break from the massive consumer way of life.»
«It’s a shame, because inspite of our many defects and faults, we believe that our difference can tell (maybe teach too) one or two things to the people of the city. This, however, is very difficult to happen with so many people around, that is, when the city moves to the island.
It’s a shame also because we are used to being few. Although we love to have a lot of visitors, it is difficult for us to get along with the hustle and bustle, evenmore to run matters in the way we should.
This text is not a tourist guide.
It was written by a group of friends, members of the Independent League of Citizens of Ikaria (*) to inform the young people who visit our island in August about our problems and our lacks and help them get round pitfalls. Our motive is love for our island. Our purpose is to be together and have a good time. Because we love the crazy Ikarian August as much as you do.»
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Transportation
B u s e s : Unlike other islands in Ikaria there is no organised transport network with a central station, billboards with timetables etc. There are buses, of course, and they are more frequent in August, most times even servicing the two ports of the island, combining with the arrival and departure of ferries. Their timetables are usually pinned at central shops of towns and villages where unfortunately they soon disappear under several layers of irrelevent posters and ads. So we end up getting information from mouth to ear or by asking the drivers. T a x i s : there are many taxis with helpful drivers and a rather cheap fare given the state of the roads and the distances. However, they are difficult to find in August. H i t c h h i k i n g : When they have spare seats local cars (plates with AT, MOA or MOB) often stop and take hitchhikers. Yet, nothing is for free in life. The «fare» is communication with the driver and the passengers. Don’t keep your mouth shut but talk. Speak about your impressions, ask questions about the island. W a l k i n g : Nobody in Ikaria will think that you are pauper or tramp because you go on foot. Everything is a road and no road in Ikaria is boring.
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Accomodation
«R o o m s : they are countless, found even in the most remote villages, some of which in amazing natural settings and with low prices even in August. O u t d o o r s : Three are the basic facts, 1st) Ikaria is ideal and very inspiring for camping, 2nd) camping is forbidden on the island -everywhere!, and 3rd) there is no organised camping site -nowhere! Not only to avoid eventual protests and raids but also because we think it is best, if you stay outdoors we suggest you are thrifty, light and flexible (and more «lawful»), by rejecting big «mobile summer villa» tents. An open awning for shade in the day and for protection from moisture at night is enough. Choose a spot as far as possible from the beach which should be kept free for everybody. If you camp on the mountains and hills, sooner or later you will be spotted and asked to leave by the locals or the fire service. As far as private land is concerned, there may be people who won’t object if you camp in their properties for a few days. As long, of course, as you find them and ask their permission. Whatever you do, wherever you go, even in the remotest wilderness, don’t behave as if you were the owner. It’s wrong.»
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Trash
«Let’s face it, Ikaria may have an enviable natural environment, but unfortunately we are not famous for our cleanliness. As if the «resident trash» haunting the streets (junk metal, rubble piles, broken cars) wasn’t enough, the 3-4 weeks of the short tourist season create a garbadge bomb! There are not enough bins, not enough trucks, not enough space in the landfills, and finally not enough cleaning workers. Recently we are doing our best to handle the situation. But we also need your help.»
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Village festivals
«The famous village festivals («panigiris») of the island are neither «shops» nor «free parties». It’s an institution (the word is not extravagant) serving multiple, religious, social and economic, needs of the small communities of every village. It is true that in the last years panigiris have been massified and commercialized (with serious impact on the environment due to over-consumption of meat and over-production of trash), nonetheless they still keep their basic characteristic as a communal egalitarian feast for everybody regardless of gender, age, origin, dress code or ideological profile. The secret is that all the organizers are volunteers. Therefore, if you have complaints, don’t behave like «dissatisfied costumers». Talk to the people of the village. They want to talk about it too. A panigiri is no one-night clubbing. Its a reunion and a celebration.»
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The roads
«It is to wonder how roads were built through those mountains and over those cliffs. And yet, the road network of Ikaria is huge and immeasurably complicated. On the other hand, most of these roads are not in a good condition. Even the main roadway (Agios Kirikos – Evdilos – Rahes – Karkinagri) is messed up in many parts with reverse slopes, sudden narrow curves, obstacles, holes, bumps etc. Drive at speeds not exceeding 30-40 km/h, wear seat belts, put on bike helmets. Don’t drive, if you drink a lot in a panigiri. Find a spot, lie down and sleep you are sober.»
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The sea
«Often when the meltemi wind blows, big waves beat the most known beaches of the northern side of the island (Kiparissi, Kampos, Messakti, Livadi, Nas). We like to watch them and to swim against their strength, but unfortunately there have been many drownings too. Besides the rules of safe swimming, when you play in the waves you must keep in mind that this activity is actually a sport. Even in the form of simple game body-surfing requires good physical condition and self-restraint. You should also keep in mind that the hardest part is at the end, when the countercurrent which runs under the waves makes it difficult for the swimmer to get back to land. You shouldn’t forget yourself in the pleasure of the game. You must have kept forces to fight the countercurrent. Finally, if you are tired of this sport, of course there are several hospitable, calm beaches in the southern side of the island, that’s something to remember too.»
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The mountain
«You may have heard about it, among the islands of the Aegean sea Ikaria is considered a top mountain climbing and hiking destination. Indeed its hiking trail network is boundless. It was created by volunteers with no help from the government in the course of many years. A d v i c e : a) When it’s windy in the summer, it hardly ever rains, however the mountain-tops are often covered with thick fog. b) The canyon of the river Chalares (what most people know as «the river of Nas») has acquired a fair reputation regardless of the fact that there is too little water in the river in August. The canyon itself is quite impressive, however hiking can be hard because the trail has been destroyed in several parts by floods and overgrazing goats. c) A successful hiking day in Ikaria is a day that has started early in the morning. The island has a very high relief and the ground is rocky. As a result, distances come up longer than their actual length shown on the map.»
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Food and local products
«Small-scale agriculture is a way of life in Ikaria. We search, find and buy wine, moonshine, cheese, fruit, vegetables, dried herbs and everything that comes from the island. It’s good quality and it’s good for our economy.»
…………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………
«We would like holidays in Ikaria to be for you a break from the massive consumer way of life. We know, it’s odd to ask for such a thing in August which is the most wholesale and haphazard month of the year as far as holidays are concerned. But it’s exactly at that month that we think it’s worth asking. Look at the works of out ancestors on the mountains, the houses in the rocks, the terraces over cliffs. It’s in our nature to ask for the impossible. We don’t know what results we attain, we do know however that a beautiful story is being written, little by little, slowly, piece by piece, every year. It’s the fairy-tale of Ikaria. Catch the spirit and be part of our story.»
Have a good time!
(*) Aftonomi Sispirosi Politon Ikarias is an independent party in the Municipality of Ikaria. It was founded in 2010. Webpage: aspik.gr Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/groups/290700171092825/
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Ikaria, Friday 17 July 2015
Days of Meltemi
Δημοσιεύθηκε: 3 Ιουλίου, 2009 Filed under: choses vécues, exploring, flying, holidays, ikaria, photography, pleasure, stories, Uncategorized | Tags: 40-waves-cure, aegean, beach, eleni-ik, freedom, funny, Greece, ikaria, ικαρία, μωράκι, meltemi, Messakti, my-body, my-friends, September, storm, tourist-season, waves, what-it-takes, wind, witchcraft 3 Σχόλια-
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It’s not a writer’s block; it’s lobotomy. Look at the waves as they go up and down at dusk after the wind has died out. So fully they wash the mind from thoughts. This is the meltemi, the Etesian winds of the ancients. In the morning the mountains are clouded and the tourists wonder, “Is it going to rain?” Of course not. This is only wind, friendly breeze; full of good vapor, makes the land go wet and cool down. Cleans the beach from cigarette buts; provides good sleep as well and sweet dreams –my friend, the northwestern Maistros. Blow on blow on. Bring me news.
***Sorry AKK, I didn’t fulfill your request to broadcast the “Play Safe with Waves -3/1 rule of thumb” in this entry. I wanted to. Because I understand the need for some safety. But as soon as I uploaded the photo, I got carried away. And you know…, a thought crossed my mind; as a sailor’s wife maybe I shouldn’t think or talk about playing with the waves anymore. It’s not for decency’s sake. It’s superstition! Let Nana and the others do that for me from now on. Non?
f i l a k i a ♥
Comments
(6 total)
Tuesday July 17, 2007 – 03:24pm (EEST)
speaking of kishmet I remembered our blog friend ‘Can’ who wrote to me the other day and said that «Meltem» is a common female name in Turkey. I suppose it’s something like «Breeze» (the Americans like this name a lot) or the Greek Avra (Αύρα). It is good to know that the name has a positive sense verified by tradition. So when the meltemi spoils your beach days, think of it as a beautiful woman and …take the mountains! Go hiking. By the way, does anybody remember this incredible picture? It’s was a gift by the makers of the play and it features in the hikingIkaria group files. We have talked about it already in the past.
Tuesday July 17, 2007 – 01:06pm (PDT)camping in ikaria
Δημοσιεύθηκε: 30 Ιουνίου, 2009 Filed under: choses vécues, exploring, flying, hiking, holidays, ikaria, pleasure, stories, travel, Uncategorized | Tags: aegean, August, camping-in-ikaria, dreams, ecotourism, eleni-in-ikaria, freedom camper, freedom camping, Greece, ikaria, ikarian-enigma, ελεύθερο, ικ, ικαρία, μονοπάτια, lonely-camper, my-idea, my-photo, responsible, stories, summer, tourism, tourist-season, utopia, wild camping 16 Σχόλια-
This is my
idea of «Camping in Ikaria»
SOMEWHERE LONELY HIGH UP AND AWAY FROM THE CROWDS AT THE BEACHES
From an original on Instagram © All rights reserved
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From an original on Instagram © All rights reserved
From an original on Instagram © All rights reserved
From an original on Instagram © All rights reserved
From an original on Instagram © All rights reserved
From an original on Instagram © All rights reserved
From an original on Instagram © All rights reserved
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From an original on Instagram © All rights reserved
From an original on Instagram © All rights reserved
From an original on Instagram © All rights reserved
From an original on Instagram © All rights reserved
From an original on Instagram © All rights reserved
From an original on Instagram © All rights reserved
From an original on Instagram © All rights reserved
From an original on Instagram © All rights reserved
From an original on Instagram © All rights reserved
From an original on Instagram © All rights reserved
From an original on Instagram © All rights reserved
From an original on Instagram © All rights reserved
From an original on Instagram © All rights reserved
From an original on Instagram © All rights reserved
From an original on Instagram © All rights reserved
From an original on Instagram © All rights reserved
From an original on Instagram © All rights reserved
From an original on Instagram © All rights reserved
From an original on Instagram © All rights reserved
From an original on Instagram © All rights reservedIt’s called «wild camping» and of course it’s illegal all the way. You may get in trouble with the police, the fire service, moody locals, with anyone in short. But still campers take their risks. Because the mountainous environment of our island is so inspiring and challenging for wild camping.
As far as I am concerned now, I am a family person so I don’t think I’m going to do this for quite awhile at least. I don’t mind and it’s all for the best. Anyway, see you up there somewhere after 20…
And don’t forget to read my article (διαθεσιμο και στα Ελληνικα): «Ikaria in August – Instructions for Use»
filakia
Eleni
Comments
(6 total)
Το τελευταίο τεύχος του περιοδικού ‘Ανεβαίνοντας’ είχε αφιέρωμα σε κάποιες light πεζοπορικές διαδρομές σε ορισμένα νησιά του Αιγαίου, όπως η Ύδρα, η Σέριφος και μια περιοχή κοντά στα Χανιά της Κρήτης. Ελπίζω την επόμενη φορά να αναφερθούν στα «βαριά νησιά» -στα νησιά με αρχ***- όπως η Σαμοθράκη, Σάμος και η Ικαρία που με τα πανύψηλα βουνά τους δεσπόζουν στις θάλασσες.
Από τα ψηλά αυτά νησιώτικα βουνά, εκτός απ’ τον Αθέρα της Ικαρίας, έχω ανέβει στον Άθωνα του Αγίου Όρους (αυτή τη χερσόνησο την θεωρώ ‘νησί’). Δεν είναι κανένα τρομακτικά ψηλό βουνό. Απέναντι όταν φαίνεται ο Όλυμπος, λες «πω πω να αυτός είναι όγκος και ύψος». Όμως στα ψηλά νησιώτικα βουνά επειδή τα κυκλώνει η στιλπνή επιφάνεια της θάλασσας, νιώθεις απόλυτα το αίσθημα του ‘αιώρησης’ -ότι πετάς στον ουρανό όπως με ζέπελιν (αχ Ελένη!… χα χα) και τραμπαλίζεσαι. Στη Πίνδο που ανέβηκα δεν το ένιωσα αυτό. Ένιωσα μια τεράστια μουσική με πολλούς ισοκράτες (ωωωμμμμ κ’ ββββμμμμμ) να βγαίνει από παντού, αλλά δεν ‘αιωρήθηκα’ όπως στον Αθέρα και στον Άθωνα.
Αυτά είναι τα μέρη για κάμπινγκ στην Ικαρία. Έχεις απόλυτο δίκιο. Οι κορυφογραμμές του Αθέρα και οι κοιλάδες ανάμεσά τους. Το κάμπινγκ για μένα είναι ‘χάσιμο’ και διαφυγή, όχι χαρούμενη, τάχα μου εναλλακτική κοινωνικοποίηση και κρυφτούλι με την Αστυνομία, όπως στη Χάλαρη κοντά στον Να.
Και για να μην νομίζεις Ελενάκι πως είμαι κάνας ήρωας, το έχω κάνει μόνο μια φορά όπως κι εσύ. Είχαμε μαζί μας έναν Ολλανδό, έναν μπαγλαμά και ένα σκύλο. Περπατήσαμε από τα Αμμούδια πάνω από τις Ράχες μέχρι τον Άγιο Ισίδωρο στο Πέζι. Στο ενδιάμεσο κατασκηνώσαμε κάπου βαθιά μέσα στην Εριφή. Ο Ολλανδός είχε τρομάξει. Ο σκύλος ενθουσιάστηκε. Οι κοπέλες ήθελαν ιστορίες με φαντάσματα. Τη νύχτα έπιασε ομίχλη και κρύο και αγκαλιαστήκαμε όλοι μαζί (και ο σκύλος) σαν αδελφάκια. Την άλλη μέρα φτάσαμε στον Άγιο Ισίδωρο και κάναμε ένα τρομερό γλέντι με τον μπαγλαμά και κάτι παϊδάκια που έφερε ένας φίλος με μηχανή από τις Ράχες.
Όταν νύχτωσε οι κοπέλες ήθελαν έρωτα. Εμείς ήμασταν ‘μετεωρισμένοι’ και δεν ξέραμε τι μας γινόταν. Δεν θυμάμαι πως γύρισα την άλλη μέρα σπίτι μου. Ήμασταν 23-26 χρονών. Ο σκύλος λεγόταν ‘Ζουζουρίνος’.
Friday October 27, 2006 – 08:51pm (EEST)
καταπληκτικη περιπετεια! 🙂
Saturday October 28, 2006 – 04:04am (PDT)
Τι γνώμη έχεις γι’ αυτό;
http://athens.indymedia.org/front.php3?lang=el&article_id=736682
Οι περισσότερες καταχωρήσεις είναι για την Ικαρία και το ελεύθερο κάμπινγκ. Βάζω εδώ το λινκ για να το έχεις πρόχειρο σε περίπτωση που θες να το προσθέσεις στο entry σου με τίτλο π.χ. ‘διάφορες άλλες απόψεις’.
Sunday May 18, 2008 – 09:36pm (EEST)
Ναι, οκ, ομως ‘οι διαφορες αλλες αποψεις’ ειναι ουσιαστικα μονο μια: ‘Παμε να τη πεσουμε καπου και να ειμαστε ολοι μαζι‘. Το σεβομαι και το καταλαβαινω ως tribal φαση εχει την αξια της. Δεν το εχω κανει ποτε, ουτε στα πιο αγρια χρονια της νιοτης μου οταν ειχα να δειξω και να αποδειξω κατι.
Όταν ειχα να δειξω και να αποδειξω κατι, το εδειχνα και το αποδειχνα στον εαυτο μου, αντε και σε 3-4 κολητους, καπου ψηλα, καπου μακρια. Κι ας μας επερνε τις μισες διακοπες για να βρουμε το σωστο μοναχικο μερος.
Οσο για τον θαυμασμο των μαζων… οκ, μπορουσαν μετα κάποτε αλλού … να δουν τις φωτογραφιες! 🙂
Παντως, για να μην αδικουμε εκεινους που μας διαβαζουν κι οι πιο πολλοι ειναι νεα παιδια που θελουν να καθονται ολοι μαζι στην παραλια, το αντισκηνο δεν ειναι λυση. Φτανει πια το κυνηγητο με τους μπατσους ή/και τους αντιδραστικους που εχει καθε τοπος και που πιστευουν οτι ο τοπος τους ειναι μονο για πλουσιους (???). Δεν μας αρεσουν αυτα τα σκηνικα, γι’ αυτο, η λυση ειναι…
idio*sun*cratic
Δημοσιεύθηκε: 30 Ιουνίου, 2009 Filed under: choses vécues, exploring, festivals, flying, ikaria, photography, stories | Tags: ecotourism, Greece, idiosyncratic, ikaria, island in the aegean sea, ήλιος, γάιδαρος, γαϊδουροκαλόκαιρο, ιδιόρυθμος, ιδιοσυγκρατικός, ικ, ικαρία, poetry, summer, sun, sunset, tourism, tourist-season 1 σχόλιο
…………………….
…
I feel that I’ve got to cherish my blog, my good friends and the curious visitors as well.
This is also a donkey-photo.
After July 20 it’s the *donkey-summer* = το γαϊδουροκαλοκαιρο.
This is how they used to call this period in Greece. When only donkeys can stand the heat
and the sun over their heads at noon. Then it was discovered that tourists too can do this,
so the expression fell out of use. Now they call it «tourist season».
I’m no tourist…
HII-III-HAAA !!!…
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Comments
(8 total)
γεια σου γαϊδουρίτσα !
This picture is so good. Especially the lines, the sun rays, the shades, whatever they are. I’ll alter my professional «sun» logo (Flickr icon) to fit on this idio*sun*cratic. You will see…
Saturday July 22, 2006 – 10:56pm (EEST)
Which of us can forget that dawn? Thank you for cherishing us.
How about «idiosyncratic ikarian sunrise seen through a donkey’s ears»
(expressionism)
Sunday July 23, 2006 – 03:09pm (EEST)
Hello Eleni, probably I’m also «idiosyncratic»: from Milan I love a far island. the colors, the scents, the situations have given me many emotions. then think that the tourists who come to ikaria are not «usually» tourists. also the Italians, the French and the Spanish who I have known to ikaria were interesting persons. less interesting and less «idiosyncratic» persons have rifared baggages the day after… ikaria is not a island for superficial eyes (who watches with attention the inside of the island loves it!).
robi
Monday July 24, 2006 – 06:26pm (CEST)
Benvenuta !!
How do they say in Italian «a prendre ou a laisser»? «To take it or leave it»?
It’s an expression from the trade business, when there is no margin for bargain, negociation and discounts. I have always thought of Ikaria like this.
A second thing, a new thing (thank you for reminding me Robi) is that with all the Spanish, the Italian, the French visiting, AT LAST Ikaria is connecting to the Mediterranean peoples. This makes a BIG difference.
I hope that some day it will go as well with the Turks. There have been some good signs.
my warmest *idio-sun-cratic* kisses (with extra *sun* flavour + grains of salt for you)
Elle-ni
P.S. I’ll go on and write «Ikaria in winter«. Maybe I’ll get distracted from this and that -as I usually do- and I hope it will not be from anything bad (like the war in the middle east) …no matter what, but I will write it.
Monday July 24, 2006 – 01:23pm (PDT)
«Prendere o lasciare»“to take or to leave” it cannot be dealt, or in this way or nothing… yes, ikaria is hard in the first contact. it has not been folded to the tourists like other Greek islands that I have seen in transformation in the years. like amorgos, island that years before I thought wonderful. the slid year I found it transformed, tourist, all spoke English, sure also Italian… I don’t like! I love to turn for ikaria, with my dictionary of Italian-Greek, to speak with the old ones about the place, to participate to the cultural events of the population. I adapt to the island and not the contrary. this enriches to me. «cara» (dear) elle, I hope to come to find you this winter, to latest in spring. I teach you one Italian poetry for children, written from Gianni Rodari:
PROMEMORIA
“there are things to make every day:
to wash themselves, to study, to play,
to prepare the table
for noon.
there are things to make of night:
to close the eyes, to sleep,
to have dreams to dream,
ears for don’t feel.
there are things not to never make,
neither for sea neither for earth:
as an example the war.“
Tuesday July 25, 2006 – 11:33am (CEST)
thank you for the poem robi
i thought of my kids
P.S. Elle, be proud. Your blog attracts good poems. Do you keep count?
Tuesday July 25, 2006 – 11:29pm (EEST)
they come in peace
Oh, I see we have a new italian friend! welcome Kali, I totally agree with you when you say that Ikarian tourists are not common tourists. There must be a reason why you choose Ikaria instead of Ios or Mykonos. And the reason is that you are looking for something else. Forget discos, crowded beachs, one night love affairs… welcome in the land of rocks & fairies.
People like this loves the island the way it is, so I don’t think they are the menace. May be the real threat is the way who manage the touristic growth of Ikaria think at them.
Thursday July 27, 2006 – 03:48pm (CEST)
The tourist business like any business works with models, stereotypes, averages, masses; when everybody, resident or visitor is individualistic (*idiosyncratic*), the business has a problem. One is looking for butterflies, the other is looking to drink and dance; one is looking for thrilling motorbike rounds, the other wants peace and sunsets. One wants to meet the locals, the other wants to rave. I’ve met people who came to rave and found themselves digging my land (everybody loves potatoes fried in good olive oil).
I think it’s because of the landscape. The French have a good word for it : «accidenté» (accidentual?)
Thursday July 27, 2006 – 01:55pm (PDT)
Eleni's Blog in Ikaria 
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